Czech & Speake reissue: Dark Rose

This week I received notification that British aromatics creators Czech & Speake are set to re-release a trio of sophisticated and beautifully presented scents in their Prestige Floral Collection of fine fragrances. The line up celebrates the return of three classic Czech & Speake scents: the vibrant and youthful Rose (1988), the sensual floral Mimosa (1986) and the exotic 2003 launch: Dark Rose. I have been hoping to try Dark Rose for a number of years now, but with its deletion from the C&S portfolio several years ago, it made it almost impossible to source.  At last my opportunity finally arose this morning when I received a very generous C&S sampler from London, comprising each scent from their aromatics line.

Dark Rose is a tenacious blend that excites from the get-go. The opening is sprinkled with fragrant saffron before the strikingly rich rose, precious woods, synthetic oudh and white musks combine to create a perfume that is unmistakably Indo-Arabian in nature. It is not unlike every existing  Montale aoud/rose release in both its style and composition. To a Western nose that has had little exposure to middle-eastern inspired perfumery, Dark Rose will excite and bewitch; but for those familiar with Montale's aouds and true Arabian mukhallat oils, it may fail to impress.

In August last year I blogged about Mukhallat El Emirates - a robust and opulent elixir that now to my nose, I regard as the absolute kissing cousin to Dark Rose. Comparing the two back to back, I am almost unable to determine any differences in smell... any variation that does exist, I would likely attribute to the quality of materials used in each composition. The mukhallat contains natural oils and extracts, whereas the C&S release is comprised of a long list of copy-cat synthetics (many of which are clearly declared on the back of the sample card). Dark Rose's persistence and sillage are fleeting (perhaps 2 or 3 hours, tops), whereas a few drops of the Arabian oil will imbue the air around you for the better part of an entire day.

I would be very interested to obtain a sample of the original 2003 Dark Rose cologne, just to determine if there are any nuances (both subtle or obvious) that differ from the reissued formulation. I might say that Dark Rose 2009 does manage to cut a path amongst many banal mainstream and niche releases, and its interpretation of Indo-Arabian perfume is sound; however when given the opportunity to measure it against the real thing, Dark Rose falls just a little short.

Washington Tremlett - Black Tie

For a little over a year now, I have been singing the praises of this exceptional men's release to all who will listen. Washington Tremlett, founded in Paris in 1870, became the most prominent shirt-making company in Europe and the New World. After opening a store in Saville Row in London, the company enjoyed the exclusive patronage of Kathryn Hepburn, The Onassis family and Sam Goodwyn, amongst many other names of the European elite. With numerous contacts in thespian circles, the company went on to produce costumes for many theatrical productions, including the stage show and film "My Fair Lady".

Remarkably though, the firm is best known for inventing the seven-fold tie in 1892, and for coining the phrase "black tie". To this day, Washington Tremlett's bespoke shirts are still created under the Kilroy brand, working out of Saville Row, and the impeccable styling and distinguished nature of this label have now been translated into perfume.

Black Tie is a fragrance for men, based around a floral, spicy heart which descends into a base of precious woods. Saffron and rose tread the boards beneath the radiant limelight and take the starring roles in this elegant composition. It is supported by a wonderful chorus-line of floral/herbaceous accords including tuberose, peppery geranium and sage. This exquisite mix maintains the tempo and then comes to a crescendo with its smouldering basenotes of walnut, galbanum, sandalwood and patchouli. 

Black Tie can be likened in style to Czech & Speake's No.88, though I feel the afore-mentioned seems distinctly more refined and less husky than the latter. Much like a faultlessly tailored shirt, Black Tie is cut to sit very close to the skin... it is the distinguished skin scent of a man with impeccable grooming and refined masculinity.

Washington Tremlett have six scents in the range to date: Black Tie, My Fair Lady, Royal Heroes, M.P.H, and the newly launched Iris Absolute, and Neroli Absolute.

Citrus Paradisi: Citrus done well...

Generally speaking, I am a devoted fan of citrus. My mediterranean complexion seems to provide an efficacious canvas upon which it will - more often than not - cheerfully blossom.

Therefore, I have ample scents in my wardrobe with accords that run the gamut from Tunisian bergamot to blood orange, zesty lime and Sicilian lemon to piquant kumquat. But recently I came across a citrus that broke the "clean and fresh" citrus mould.

Citrus Paradisi, the extraordinary eau de toilette released by Czech & Speake of London, is a welcome deviation from the citrus norm. It is both modern and traditional in style. Its opening accords are vibrant and lush, brimming with shimmering grapefruit; but almost instantly one is lured down into the dusky heart of this fragrance where rich patchouli lurks alongside odiferous oak moss. There is a lively shot of black pepper beneath which lends a prickling warmth to the anatomy of this scent. Citrus Paradisi manages to rouse the senses with its shrill, vivacious grapefruit; but also murmurs in one's ear with hushed, tranquil tones. 

It is a 'mature' citrus: one that is contemporary for today, without losing a loyalty and sensitivity to yesterday. Often overlooked, but undeniably one of the best of its class.