Being Tom Ford: Grey Vetiver

It must be hard being Tom Ford. Despite the obvious glamour and celebrity associated with being one of the world's largest contemporary style icons, I can not begin to imagine how much pressure comes with that role. I have trawled the internet looking at photos of Ford, and in every one of them he looks immaculate. Can Ford have a bad hair day? Unlikely, I'd say. So, how difficult would it be to maintain that face both publicly and privately, 24/7? In business, everything the man touches turns to gold and he is often revered as the yardstick against which other designers are measured. His refined, chic, editing eye and fastidious work ethic has seen him reach dizzying heights. People aspire to be like him, taste his fame, and dream to achieve just a fraction of the success he has enjoyed. Ford must be under enormous scrutiny, whilst competitors and adversaries wait for him to stumble. Expectations are stratospheric every time this man opens a boutique, launches a line, or bestows the world with a new perfume creation. I do not envy this man.

Perhaps I too, have unrealistic expectations of Tom Ford - after all, in my opinion, the man has never failed to amaze and inspire me - his superb tailoring, à la mode accessories and stunning private blend perfumes have me pressing my nose at boutique glass windows the world over. Therefore, when I hear of an impending Ford fragrance release, I anticipate perfection and nothing less! Am I being unrealistic in doing so? Hell no... the man has a crack-team of professionals working around the clock under the Tom Ford Beauty umbrella, and cash and resources coming out the wazoo!

Imagine my crushing disappointment then, dear reader, when I sampled the upcoming Tom Ford men's release Grey Vetiver, set to hit shelves this September. Whilst I appreciate the continuity and cohesiveness of the colour-coded Tom Ford fragrance names (Black Orchid, White Patchouli, and now Grey Vetiver), what I find I don't love is the actual scent itself. The name Tom Ford is a brand synonymous with innovation, but here all I see is simulation... reproduction, replication, emulation. As much as it hurts me to say so, I can already identify a handful of scents that Grey Vetiver is a perfumed parody of.

The opening starts out with some promise... a rush of citrus (maybe bergamot and mandarin?) and winter green, veiled by a palpable smokiness; Bvlgari Pour Homme Extrême immediately springs to mind. I think of someone throwing wet leaves onto a fire in the corner of their garden under a solemn grey sky. (Not wishing to overly romanticise the idea, I'll leave the metaphors at that... think: grubby old gardener in overalls, as opposed to a muscle-flexing pool boy). Without any perfume pyramid available for this release, there is an earthiness present that one normally associates with vetiver scents, and I am picking up what I believe may be traces of black pepper and guaiacwood at its heart.  For those familiar with Andy Tauer's Vetiver Dance, there are parallels one can draw between the two, though the Ford release is less rambunctious than Tauer's. I also recognise hues of Narciso Rodriguez for Him... the thick, damp fougere vibe is common to them both, as is a sense of austerity and coldness. Grey Vetiver I feel will appeal to a more mature set - I can't imagine many twenty-year olds reaching for this before heading out for a night on the town... it is a little more corporate in style; more reserved and unapproachable.

Several hours later, and I am left with Versace Jeans Couture Man on my skin... quite possibly one of my least favourite scents - an odour I've always associated with washing dirty cat bowls under hot running water; with something fatty and jellied at its heart. Thankfully (for those who will like this), the scent's persistence is well above average. Not so great if you feel you smell like cat's breath.

After this experience, I have come to understand that, (at least in my eyes), Ford is fallible. Grey Vetiver is the first of his scents that I cannot and will not wear. Perhaps not the outcome I might have liked, but there are always his four new White Musk Private Blends to look forward to. The Sorcery of Scent will be reviewing White Suede in the week to come.

Ambergris / Ambre Gris

Whilst the idea of using authentic animal products in perfumery is enough to enrage animal rights activists the world over, there is comfort in knowing that the much sought-after Ambergris (grey amber) is one of a few substances that can be sourced without inflicting any harm to the creature itself.  Au contrare...  this waxy grey/white material is uncommonly ejected from the intestinal tracts of sperm whales, bringing much relief to the beast in the process.

The trouble is, that ambergris is difficult to come by. Occasionally, some very fortunate beachcombers stumble upon lumps of varying sizes in the dunes, and others have scooped the floating material from the open seas with nets - but whatever the method of collection, ambergris will be sure to net you a tidy profit. In recent years, a 15kg lump that was found on a beach in South Australia, has been valued at a whopping $300,000. Its rarity and desirability for use as a basenote and fixative in perfume sees suppliers shell out top-dollar to secure this rare commodity. Its deeply earthy, semi-sweet balsamic aroma intensifies fragrances, and increases longevity.

For decades perfumers have been inspired by this rare and precious component, and many have put their own twist on the ambergris theme. One which I am particularly fond of, is the 2008 Balmain release, aptly named Ambre Gris. Enchantingly presented in a weighty grey glass flacon and twinkling gold crown, Ambre Gris is an opulent elixir that displays characteristics of both a gourmand perfume, and one with a mild animalic edge.

It opens with a rousing floral accord that shifts quickly into a candied fruit note... but thankfully one which is not too saccharine in nature. A permeating honeyed warmth seeps through the topnotes, and is followed by a husky iris-like dryness. It is at this point where the scent lingers in an unusual narcotising state of limbo where the balsamic ambergris materialises as if from the murky depths, and is suspended like a shining lure at the end of a fisherman's hook. It is sensuous and smouldering. Wonderful curls of resinous benzoin lend a deep caramel warmth, and myrrh; a soft soapiness to the scent. The edible quality is thick and luxurious like ribbons of golden syrup, but the ambergris at the heart denotes something more organic. Its tranquilizing voice sings through the layers of this perfume like a Siren, beckoning, coercing, ensnaring.

Many hours later, Ambre Gris is still evolving. There are fleeting moments of synthetic rubber such as those found in Bvlgari Black,  leather much like that present in Acqua di Parma's Colonia Assoluta, and vanilla/musks akin to those in Gaultier2. It is a perfume that has been made for the mainstream market, yet it has all the olfactory indicators that could liken it to many niche releases today. It can be celebrated for its above-average sillage and titanic persistence (8+ hours on me, after 2 discreet spritzes), but more so for its charming take on this prized treasure from the sea.

Thanks go to Liz, for sending me with this bottle. A very kind gesture, and much treasured gift.

Bvlgari to the Extrême!

It has been a number of years since I worked with the renowned jeweller, hotelier and perfume house, Bvlgari. Their brand is synonymous with style, elegance and luxury, and (I am told) a night's stay in one of their lavishly-appointed hotels can quite literally break the bank (much in the same way purchasing one of their eye-popping baubles might)!

But ever since Greek jeweller Sotiris Bulgaris left his home in Northern Greece in the late 1800's, to set up shop in Rome; the brand that still bares his name to this day has grown into a global powerhouse. More than 100 years after this monumental move to Italy, it was the French perfumer Jean Claude Ellena who was commissioned to create the house's very first Eau de Cologne, named Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert: an elegant splash centred around green tea and soft, clean citruses. It proved a hit, and paved the way for several subsequent releases in the Eau Parfumée range: Eau Thé Blanc, and Eau Thé Rouge. But for my money, I personally feel the concentrated version: Eau Parfumée Au Thé Vert Extrême is the standout scent in this portfolio.

Often unfairly overlooked (and identifiable by it's shorter, wider bottle adorned with a dark green label), the Extrême release is distinctly more intense than the original eau de cologne. An eau de toilette for men and women, this release again focuses on green tea, but also light florals and zesty Italian bergamot. White pepper serves as the humming heart over which these radiant green floral accords shimmer. Where the original EDC seems somewhat harsher and dryer to the nose, the EDT brims with fresh green vitality. I am impressed with its longevity, and as a refreshing summer tonic, Extrême artfully awakens and stimulates the senses. 

I detect some parallels with the citrus accords in Cartier's Declaration For Him, and those also found in Acqua di Parma's Colonia Intensa.

Next time you pass by your local Bvlgari installation (or indeed stay for a time in their opulent Milano hotel or Bali resort), be sure to reward yourself with a spritz of the good stuff. Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert Extrême does not disappoint.

Florals for Men: Kenzo Power

Though I've always been fascinated by Japanese minimalism, I've never really warmed to any Kenzo perfume releases. Whilst I've admired their clean packaging and organic-shaped flacons, none of their juices actually appealed to me. Until, that is, the launch of Kenzo Power, their new fragrance for men. A few days ago, I was fortunate enough to be passing through a retail store as this fragrance was being unpacked and placed on shelves. Like an enthusiastic bower-bird, my eye caught sight of the beautiful mirrored flacon sitting across the room, and I swooped in to sample. 

The 125ml bottle felt cold and heavy in my hand... quite industrial when measured against bottles from previous Kenzo perfume releases - however, its smooth, high-shine tapering curves echoed biological lines found in nature. Design-wise, it was an interesting paradox.

The scent itself, opens with a blast of citrusy bergamot, but with the sharp tartness shaved off... a pinch of cardamon does well in diminishing the tangy opening accords, before a beautiful luminous floral heart shifts to the fore. I liken these lustrous accords to those found in Thierry Mugler's Alien... a radiant jasmine tippy-toes over sweet freesia and dusty rose to render this a rather remarkable (and wearable) floral for men. There is no surprise that Olivier Polge (the nose behind Dior Homme) is also the nose behind Power, as the perfume transitions again and a powdery orris-like note emerges... it seems Polge has borrowed from the success of this appealing accord in Homme. There are also fleeting moments where there is an interesting 'synthetic' feel to the fragrance, but that is not to say it is an undesirable quality. In fact, it can be likened to the pleasant rubberyness found in Bvlgari Black, or Malle's Musc Ravageur. 

The heart notes eventually taper off into a warm woody ambery base of cedar and labadnum, which remain on the skin for a number of hours. I find the overall composition very appealing, and really rather removed from other mainstream men's perfume releases. Whilst Power can be likened in style to a number of other launches, it is quite unique, and marks a bold new direction for Kenzo. It is a sophisticated floral for men that should not be shied away from.

Below, video taken from youtube of the Kenzo Power media launch in Japan.

Olivier Durbano: Mineral Magic.

There is a long history in perfumery that has seen many high-end jewelers launch lavish perfumes for the well-heeled (and not-so well-heeled). Tiffany's, Cartier, Chopard and Van Cleef & Arpels are amongst the big names that have capitalized on their established brands to bring us opulent fragrances in breathtaking flacons that shimmer like faceted gems. With millions spent on advertising, these names are synonymous with style and elegance. One can quite easily draw parallels between the exquisite craftsmanship of a Bvlgari pendant, and an exceptionally crafted scent - something heavy with uncommon white florals and hypnotizing musks. So, in a global market driven by consumerism and excess, I find it refreshing to find a distinctive fragrance released by jeweler-turned-niche-perfumer Olivier Durbano - a scent that is not inspired by priceless gemstones; but rather one of the most common, unassuming minerals known to man. 

Rock Crystal is the first in a series of seven perfumes or "stone poems" that explore man's link to precious or primitive stones, and '... serve as contemporary talismans to offer in a world of pureness, harmony and serenity'. What I find truly remarkable about this unisex release, is that it is strikingly true to its name and creates an aura that is both natural and elemental. It opens with a contradictory "wet dryness", much like the moist trapped air one imagines fills cavernous halls deep beneath the earth's surface. It is both earthy and airy, and hot and cold. A sharp, transparent orange accord plays over fragrant woods, husky frankincense, spices and vetiver. The result communicates a sense of primordial familiarity... as though somewhere in the dark recesses of our DNA, we might once have smelled this before.

This scent seems to have a personality all of its own... deep, unpretentious, mysterious, and yet somewhat fragile - much like the long glassy shards that blossom beneath the earth in brittle stone florets over the millennia.

Durbano's interpretation of natural quartz crystal has impressive persistence, and, to my mind, is an absolute triumph. The understated bottle is simple and effective, and the small stone crystals floating at the bottom is a very nice touch. But the true treasure is in the juice itself.

Similar in nature to Tauer's L'air du Desert Marocain, Rock Crystal is a scent to be celebrated.

Olivier Durbano produces exceptional hand-crafted jewellery. Visit his website (access upon request) at: www.olivierdurbano.com