Saying goodbye to a great: Alexander McQueen

This morning, I join the fashion world in lamenting the loss of another of their greats: Alexander McQueen. Few designers have changed the course of fashion in the same way McQueen did with his avante garde stylings and creations that embraced the alienesque. His vision was truly extraordinary, and his work revered by millions.

Lee Alexander McQueen stepped onto the world stage in 1996 after winning a "British Fashion Designer of the Year" award: an accolade he went on to claim 3 more times by 2003. In 2000, McQueen partnered with the Gucci Group and worked at the helm of his own brand as Creative Director. Since then, McQueen opened boutiques in London, New York, Los Angeles, Milan and Las Vegas, and his unconventional fashion has managed to penetrate the global psyche. In 2000, McQueen launched his first fragrance Kingdom: a scent that was met with polarizing opinions - much like his couture. Kingdom, - packaged in deep garnet-red Venetian glass and glinting rhodium - exhudes a sexual aura of potent spices, dark woods and exotic florals. To this day, it is still considered venturesome and daring. Those with a true appreciation for McQueen's universe can fathom its significance, and recognise its impact on how contemporary perfumes are perceived today.

As a visionary, McQueen led the charge and his ongoing contribution to fashion will be missed. 

Mona di Orio & Nuit Noire

If I were asked to predict a current French perfume house which is waiting patiently in the wings to one day ascend to the throne currently occupied by perfume royalty Guerlain, I would likely say Mona di Orio.

Guerlain, - though most unlikely to abdicate - are revered and celebrated (amongst others) as pioneers of modern perfumery, particularly at the hands of perfume godfather Jacques Guerlain (1874 - 1963). Their contribution to the art is colossal, and Jacques Guerlain's abstract perfume narratives such as L'Heure Bleue, Shalimar and Vol de Nuit have left their permanent perfumed fingerprint in history. The same could be said for the efforts of French master perfumer Edmond Roudnitska whose creative masterpieces Diorissimo, Eau Savage and Rochas Femme, olfactorily helped reshape the 20th century.

Mona di Orio, born in 1969 in Annecy France, became Roudnitska's teenage protégée; studying the art from the grand master himself before his death in 1996. As a result, Mona di Orio developed a fundamental sensitivity towards observing traditional values and garnered an appreciation for raw materials of only the finest quality. Now the creative partner alongside Dutch designer Jeroen Oude Sogtoen at the helm of her eponymous perfume house, this has become very apparent in her work.

Seven Mona di Orio perfumes exist to date, and all are intended to transform the wearer with their own unique alchemy on the skin. Nuit Noire is one eau de parfum creation that I feel may best illustrate Mona di Orio's tutelage under her mentor Roudnitska, and the vast, timeless heritage behind him. Nuit Noire opens with a delightful orange blossom note which is astutely and instantaneously counterbalanced by a dark, animalic (almost civety) accord of dense cardamom. Immediately, one experiences a sense of wistful recollection; much in the same way as if, perhaps one were turning the foxed pages of an antique family photo album, studying the sepia faces of well-dressed ancestors you have never really known. A complex heart of resins, woods and spices lend infinite depth, whilst a narcotising tuberose accord evokes a feeling of vintage sumptuousness. Hours later, Nuit Noire shifts more toward a creamy leather base. It is whilst familiarising oneself with the wonderful transitory layers of this perfume, that one can truly come to terms with its beauty and complexity. Here, the cherished works of early 20th century perfume virtuosos still resound, albeit now spoken with a contemporary vernacular.

I would encourage everyone to try at least one or two scents from the Mona di Orio line. The 2009 release Chamarré is also a favourite, and embraces this concept of tipping its hat, respectfully, to the greats.

Washington Tremlett: Clove Absolute

One can't even begin to fathom what possessed British shirt-making institution Washington Tremlett to add a scattering of coloured swarovski crystals to the bottles of their recent perfume releases, but if one can look past their evident tackiness, Clove Absolute is a launch worthy of some examination.

Whilst I adore the smell of fragrant clove buds and relish what they bring to cuisine, Clove Absolute represents more of an abstract of clove.

The woody buds (that most would recall pushing into ripe oranges or corned beef at some time or another) are bittersweet, peppery and earthy - something that Washington Tremlett has surprisingly opted to overlook. Instead, I'd imagine a generous dose of eugenol takes pride of place in this composition, along with some shimmering citruses and soft floral accords that adeptly transform this fragrance into something perhaps a little less organic. There is a lovely rose at its heart, and an appealing robust "gruffness" achieved by a dark patchouli base.

This being said, what I perhaps enjoy the most about this perfume as it dries on my skin - is the magnificent musk... a musk that echoes the friable glowing presence of Serge Luten's Muscs Koublai Kahn. Between warm wisps of frankincense and resinous labdanum, this musk is truly something to be treasured.

Clove Absolute ought to be explored by those who don't shy away from clove, and those who wear musks well. It is available in 100ml size at www.ausliebezumduft.de for €140.

Dior Exclusives: Ambre Nuit

The much anticipated inclusion to the Dior Exclusives lineup is Ambre Nuit (Night Amber) - a sensual unisex scent with a lot of promise. Released in the wake of the treasured "black tie" trio of Dior colognes, I felt this creation had much to live up to. As an unwavering devotee of the swamp-green splash Eau Noire, I was satisfied to learn first-hand that Ambre Nuit observes the Exclusives tradition of sophistication and excellence.

Dior's in-house nose Francois Demachy, (also responsible for other perfume greats such as Ungaro Homme and Acqua di Parma's Colonia Intensa) has fashioned a sultry cologne with a captivating Turkish rose accord at its nucleus. Traditionally reserved for women's perfumery, the rose has been transformed with a sprinkle of pink and black peppercorns into something more gender-neutral in style. On initial application, Calabrian bergamot stirs the senses before the spicy, somewhat masculine rose shifts forward. A wonderful ambery base gradually intensifies from beneath; comprised of resinous labdanum and a delicate, sweet, woody, creamy, slightly smoky guaiacwood accord that acts as both an anchor and fixative. Finally, Indonesian patchouli lends an earthy richness to the framework of the fragrance.

Ambre Nuit lives up to (and arguably surpasses) the stylings and exemplary character of the former scents in this lineup. As an eau de cologne applied liberally as intended, Ambre Nuit will last approximately 4-5 hours on my skin - money well spent, in my humble opinion.

Ambre Nuit and the other Dior Exclusives can be purchased online at www.essenza-nobile.de, starting from €96 for 125ml.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian: Cologne Pour le Soir

Ever since I published my city shopping feature with a focus on Maison Francis Kurkdjian, I have had only praise to sing for this inspired collection. Whilst it is hard to choose a favourite amongst the diverse products offered, the stand out scent for me is Cologne Pour le Soir... an eau de cologne that shatters the "citrus splash" stereotype of most colognes on the market.

Recommended as a scent to apply liberally in the evening to evoke sensations of comfort and love, Cologne Pour le Soir shares the resplendent style and tenacity more befitting of an eau de parfum. A fragrance that opens with smouldering accords of rose honey, amber, benzoin and husky incense; it has a marked "hollywood glamour" feeling to it which conjures images of vintage rabbit fur coats, facepowder and lipstick. It evokes a delightful impression of familiarity and admiration... as one might feel toward ones mother or a beloved grandmother perhaps.

What I find conceivably most engrossing about this fragrance is its underlying damp and frigid alter-ego... one that exists parallel to the opulent honeyed warmth, and isolated by an imaginary diaphanous membrane.

Here, there exists a darker vein that is maybe less apparent at first... it is the scent of eerily dark corridors under the earth, where the ambient temperature is far colder than the surface above, and where the air is trapped inside and stale. It is a gloomy atmosphere that lends a somewhat gothic feeling to this cologne.

This masterful chairoscuro between the warm and comforting and the musty and bleak is what sets Cologne Pour le Soir apart from other fragrances in its genre. It represents a very clever marriage between opposing sensations, and in doing renders it a release to be enjoyed by men and women alike. In terms of innovation, I have come to expect no less from master perfumer Kurkdjian.

Cologne Pour le Soir is an atypical cologne release, and hence must be explored. Visit the new online shop on www.franciskurkdjian.com for more information on ordering.

XerJoff Modoc: 5 minute feature

Kudos once again to Italian luxury purveyors of perfume: XerJoff, whom never seem to disappoint!

This time it is the captivating spicy chypre Modoc from their XJ Shooting Stars collection that has won me over. Modoc is an exquisitely crafted marriage between gorgeous soft woods, peppery carnation, earthy vetiver and real Florentine iris butter... the result being a deliciously velvety eau de parfum with warm, spicy elements. As far as traditional chypres go, Modoc seems really rather removed, however it still manages to embody a sense of distinction and timeless refinement that one comes to expect only of XerJoff.

Modoc just gets better and better as it evaporates on the skin. This edp lasts a very generous 10-12 hours and can be bought at select retail outlets in the UK, Italy, France and Russia.

For more information on XerJoff's high-end perfume creations, visit www.xerjoff.com.

MM - MMIX: brief thoughts

Tonight we come to the end of the "naughties" and usher in a brand new year with a full moon - something we are not likely to experience again until 2028. As we step across this invisible threshold, I am puzzled as to what this new decade will be referred to as: the "tens" perhaps, or maybe "teens"? More so, I ponder the current trajectory of the perfuming arts, and wonder where it will have taken us ten years from now. Much like orbiting celestial bodies, I expect we might come full-circle again, doubling-back on ourselves in a similar fashion as we have in decades gone by.

The naughties saw us shift away from the androgynous, unembellished unisex styles of the 90's and return to excess and 'maximalism' in perfumery - a harkening back to the powerhouse styles of the 80's complete with overindulgent packaging and lavish bottle designs. Again, perfume followed trend as style-sultan Tom Ford and others reintroduced Hollywood glam and 80's immoderation to fashion. The naughties was a decade where we looked over our shoulders to reinterpret and reinvent the past. In addition, echoes of the roaring 20's and art deco themes resonated with the prolific reintroduction of chypre-style perfumes. In the last ten years, a marked return to traditional values and time-honoured muses prevailed. Perhaps the decade to come will see us oppose this inclination once again and veer off in favour of a more neutral, epicene approach to perfumery.

It has become increasingly clear to me that innovation in this industry is a difficult thing to achieve. Few have managed to accomplish it and contribute something that severs the time-space 'loop' that sees us parrot ourselves every twenty or thirty years. Perhaps we are teetering on the edge of such a breakthrough. I guess only time will tell.

Happy 2010.

Dimitri.

Isabey: Fleur Nocturne

Les Parfums d'Isabey was founded in Paris in 1924 by Maurice Loewe - backed by the Rothschild family - to produce high-quality perfumes in luxury packaging. It was named after Isabey, an early 19th century artist. It became best known perhaps for its scents Gardenia, (created in 1924 and revived again in 2002), and Bleu de Chine, created in 1925.

Now, in 2009, Bleu de Chine has experienced a revival of its own, though now under the name Fleur Nocturne, as the original name has since been trademarked by another company. In 1925, the amethyst-coloured parfum flacon designed by Julien Viard and created by Ludwig Moser, was a much sought-after luxury item. The design was later re-realised in a cylindrical moulded glass eau de toilette presentation, reminiscent of a Chinese lantern with ornate embellishments in relief. This flacon is the basis for the modern 2009 interpretation which is rendered in smooth indigo blue glass. In 1941 the company was acquired by Marcel Guerlain (no relation to "that" Guerlain) and now Isabey is owned by Panouge Parfums, Paris.

French perfumer Jean Jacques is the nose responsible for appending and reinterpreting the olfactory markers of the original release, and giving it a modern-day vernacular. Here, Jacques presents us with a dramatic floral arrangement with semi-sweet, nectar-like accords. Whilst the opening of Fleur Nocturne is delicately perfumed with soft white peaches and apricot blossoms, it is the heart of white flowers that forms the decadently sumptuous basis of this scent. Magnolias feature here in a similar fashion as they do in Acqua di Parma's Magnolia Nobile, however the heady perfume of jasmine swells in the air, just as their star-shaped blossoms do on the vine just before nightfall. A very spectacular gardenia note serves as the red thread that ties this fragrance to Isabey's Gardenia: a scent that is cherished for its lavish and masterful portrayal of this flower. A tender vein of vanilla meanders throughout the composition which not only acts as a fixative, but also as a supporting accord to the flourishing florals. The press notes accompanying the perfume suggest that patchouli also lends itself to the framework of this fragrance, but my nose simply doesn't smell it.

There is no doubt in my mind that Fleur Nocturne is probably quite removed from the original Bleu de Chine. Whilst I feel it may flash a secretive wink at Isabey's esteemed best-selling perfume of the 1920's, I do feel it very much in the here and now. Still, one cannot fault the efforts of a perfume house that is willing to strike a balance between tradition and modern reinterpretation. Just as the beautiful flacon has evolved over the course of a century, I suspect so too has the perfume. Without the honour of sampling Bleu de Chine however, this is pure speculation.

Isabey Fleur Nocturne will appeal to those who appreciate twenty-first century splendour with a pinch of sentimental whimsy. It is available in 50ml size for €129, from www.ausliebezumduft.de. Direct link here.

Monocle x Comme des Garcons Scent Two: Laurel

As tends to be the case with many Comme des Garcons perfume collaborations, the partnership with British business, culture and design magazine Monacle has proven to be a triumph. The limited edition 2008 fragrance release Hinoki put them on the map, and now in December 2009 the alliance introduces their second scent to date: Laurel.

Perfumer Antoine Maisondieu (the nose behind Hinoki and fragrances from the Etat Libre d'Orange portfolio) was recruited a second time to give life to Laurel - a scent that is inspired by the fertile Bekaa Valley in Lebanon.

Laurel opens with a blast of vivacious, aromatic green which is extremely sappy/resinous in nature. I liken the smell to the odour that is transferred to your fingertips when you crush the needle-like leaves of cypress pine in your hands. It is a sharp, sweet odour shared by many conifers, that also embodies the scent of the softwood at its heart. Earlier this year I blogged about Aleppo Oil sourced from Pinus halepensis - a pine species found across the Mediterranean, Asia Minor, Lybia and Syria, which has a very specific smell (one that is quite lemony in nature, and less "glacé" than many other resinous pines). To my nose, Laurel seems to embody this sensation of Aleppo, and those familiar with Aleppo soap products from Damascus will easily be cognizant of it here. It is also safe to say that laurel plays a starring role in this fragrance, and it does indeed - the distinct aroma of dried bay leaves is unmistakable here, and adds to the exotic eastern feel of the perfume. It has been cleverly married however, to other accords that pay hommage to this special part of the world. The Al Shouf Cedar Reserve covers about 5% of the overall area of Lebanon so it is only fitting that Laurel includes a cedar component. Fortunately though, it seems well removed from "stock standard" cedar that has pervaded perfume releases in the past few years.

In contrast to this evergreen characteristic, and perhaps what I find most interesting about Laurel is how it prickles at the back of the nose with what I can only describe as a "white pepper" vibe which almost triggers a sneeze. I take delight in this physiological response, which I also experience when sniffing other scents like L'eau Bleue d'Issey and Eau de Sisley 3. This stimulating vein of pepper tingles over earthy patchouli, a wonderful resinous frankincense and warm amber accords to create a perfume that aligns my nose and draws my mind's eye once again to the colourful Near East.

Laurel is a tenacious and spirited eau de toilette that has a rather linear composition (as one has come to expect from Comme des Garcons) and lasts well over nine hours on my skin.

If the union between Comme des Garcons and Monacle continues to flourish, then I already anticipate a third release, every bit as spectacular as this one.

Reliable Online E-tailers

Sorcery of Scent occasionally receives emails or comments asking me to make personal recommendations for reliable online fragrance e-tailers. Whilst bricks-and-mortar stores can provide you with the opportunity to sample scents and enjoy the tactile aspect of holding the flacon and packaging in your hands, e-tailers offer accessibility to scents that might otherwise be impossible to source in your area. It is wise to embrace both online and offline methods to source your smellies and to ensure you're getting the best deal.

As far as e-tailers are concerned, there are two main options:

1. Online Discounters, and

2. Online Retailers

1. Online discounters provide a shopfront in which mainstream and (occasionally) niche perfumes can be purchased at a competitive price to the same products in bricks and mortar stores. There are often excellent deals to be had, but the only downside is that you never quite know how "fresh" their inventory is. A vast number of discounters offer testers, damaged stock and dead stock - perhaps items that have been difficult to shift in stores and have been stored for a number of years. Some of these online stores are hit and miss, so its important to find one that clearly disclose if they are selling testers, unboxed items and so on.

www.strawberrynet.com is an online discounter that ships internationally that I can recommend. I have shopped with them for many years, and their generous loyalty program can offer you attractive bonuses. They are just beginning to add niche lines to their range such as Creed, Floris, Nasomatto, Serge Lutens and so on. I have also had successful and reliable transactions with www.directcosmetics.com - a discounter operating out of the UK.

2. Online retailers include websites created specifically by individual perfume houses, and internet shopfronts that offer perfumes at "standard" retail (non discounted) prices. As a consumer, one might wonder why one would wish to shop at full retail price for goods that you might well find on a discounted website (and pay for postage to boot!)... well, the upside is that buying direct from manufacturer's websites can almost always guarantee the product is fresh and uncompromised, and you will more often than not have the opportunity to sample other scents from their line. Perfume houses often reward customer loyalty for buying direct with catalogues and samples and small gifts. Joining the Thierry Mugler Circle, for example ( http://www.thierrymugler.com ), will mean you will be sent generous samples of new releases, digital media items such as perfume-related CD roms, and comprehensive literature.

Other online shopfronts such as http://www.ausliebezumduft.de and http://www.essenza-nobile.de - both sites I strongly recommend for European perfumistas - cater to an international clientele, and build their business by offering a staggering range of niche and hard-to-find fragrances, and also offer generous free sampling programs. Some will also provide e-vouchers which will furnish the customer with 'cash' to put towards their purchases. http://www.luckyscent.com is another reputable e-tailer that ships internationally, and is based in the USA.

Whilst there are a vast number of e-tailers on the internet, it is always good practice to do your homework in order to determine whether a specific supplier is reliable and trustworthy. Customer feedback presented on "discounter" sites for example, is not always dependable as there is a slim chance it might well have been fabricated. A good resource available to cross check e-tailers and legitimate customer feedback can be found here. Basenotes is the leading internet perfume resource with over 35,000 members and 66,000 consumer reviews.

Ultimately, a little leg-work, combined with some hours spent on the internet should provide you with a sound idea of what is available to you both locally and in cyber-space. Armed with this information, I wish you many enlightened perfume purchases.

Footnote: At the time of publishing this blog, Sorcery of Scent has no affiliation with any of the e-tailers listed above.