5 Rare Guerlains in 5 Days - Day III: Jasmin

Jasmin first appeared in the Guerlain perfume portfolio in 1924. It emerged post-WWI, just as the world swung into a brand new age of optimism and a renewed social consciousness.

Originally presented in the 'quadrilobe' flacon, and later in 'goutte', 'rosebud' and cobalt Baccarat presentations, Jasmin was one of Jacques Guerlain's numerous soliflore interpretations.

Perhaps what I find most beautiful about my vintage eau de toilette, is that it is not a straight-forward jasmine fragrance. For a single-flower scent, it is really rather complex.

The opening impression is of mildly indolic jasmine blossoms... rich and opulent; however its potency is somewhat short-lived. One becomes aware of a sharp undertone of lily of the valley which provides a crisp green constituent as the jasmine notes suddenly diminish by half. Five or six minutes later, a saccharine honey/vanilla accord emerges that reminds me of chewy Laudurée jasmine macaroons. Notes of pale wood bestow a slightly bitter "toasted" vibe.

One cannot deny the sweetness of this scent which, for its time, sometimes borders on the gourmand. Whilst evoking a sense of prettiness and youth, one can also recognise a more responsible, considered base of oakmoss.

Jasmin dances between juvenescence and adulthood... a soliflore that celebrates women both young, and those young at heart.

Tomorrow: Guerlain's Rue de la Paix

5 Rare Guerlains in 5 Days - Day II: Eau de Verveine

Verbena (whose perennial varieties are common to both Europe and the Americas) has been used for centuries for its herbal remedial properties. Its abundant accessibility and aromatic character also saw it feature heavily in perfumes of the late 19th century.

Aimee Guerlain first gave prominence to verbena around the 1870's with the release of 3 fragrances; Verveine, Eau de Verveine, and Eau Spiritueuse Double a la Verveine. It was Eau de Verveine which re-emerged in the 1960's for a short time in the "Abeilles" bottle, and stayed in production up until the mid 80's where it could also be purchased in the flacon pictured above.

Eau de Verveine opens with a sharp, uplifting blast of citrus-green. Lemon verbena accords dominate the topnotes, which are piquant like the zest of a freshly grated lime. I find the very act of smelling this fragrance on the skin causes the ducted glands inside my mouth to flood with saliva. The shimmering topnotes are energising and bright, but below, I sense the prickle of something darker... a tiny scattering of carnation or clove perhaps; a few notes that in part, resemble the polarising "dirt" in Jicky. As the scent rests on the skin, it develops a dryness that I would liken to the aroma of dried tea-leaves. I can easily imagine deep glasses of iced tea perfumed with aromatic lemon verbena leaves, sipped as the shadows grow longer in a mossy sun-speckled garden. There is an inherent feeling of summer's end, and the chirrup of cicadas ringing in the ears.

Despite my vintage bottle being an eau de toilette, I find the longevity to be something more alike an eau de cologne. Eau de Verveine, like many of Guerlain's "eaux"; is something to be applied liberally and enjoyed for just a couple of hours.

This impossibly rare scent will quench your thirst, and leave you longing for more.

Tomorrow: Guerlain's Jasmin.

5 Rare Guerlains in 5 Days - Day I: Lavande

This week I will be featuring 5 rare Guerlain scents over 5 days - an opportunity to memorialise a number of uncommon, unfamiliar Guerlain creations that are nigh on being lost to the halls of time. Some are known by name - though rarely sniffed - thanks in part to their inaccessibility; and others remain practically unheard of.

Those who love and revere this house know well that over their 182 year history, Guerlain have provided us with hundreds of perfumes; many of which are still being uncovered for the very first time today, like glinting gems from dusty attics and musty basements.

Lavande was first created in 1840 and is credited to Aimé Guerlain, though very specific information about this perfume is extremely scarce. It came to be revived again in 1920 in the "Louis XVI" flacon, and again approximately 3 years later in Pochet & Courval's swollen "Goutte" bottle. Sadly, very few examples have remained to this day.

I have not yet found any record of an olfactory pyramid either online or in print, however the vintage eau de toilette opens with an arresting, rich lavender which smells just like one's fingers do when stripping the purple blossoms from the stem. It shifts swiftly to a rather 'dark' lavender with unusual muddy green undertones... something I liken to the immortelle/lavender marriage found in Dior's Eau Noire. A murmur of lemony citrus can be detected (possibly furnished by note of fragrant geranium) which adds sharpness to the lavender topnotes.

As the drydown progresses, I begin to sense the Guerlain "red thread" prevalent in many of their earlier perfumes. I experience fleeting nuances of Chant d'Aromes, only without the aldehydes (a perfume which was not to be created for another 40 years); and a familiar vetiver/oakmoss Mitsouko base over which these floral facets are awash.

Whilst the lavender topnotes might be the first to recede, Lavande remains a fascinating blend which leaves me undecided as to whether this should be classified a chypre or a fougere. It certainly exhibits characteristics of both.

With the formula left unchanged, Lavande could easily be re-released in today's market and adored by many. Its deeply aromatic heart and exceptional mossy base sees it stand a full head-and-shoulders above most others in its class.

Tomorrow: Guerlain's Eau de Verveine.

Vero Profumo: Rubj Extrait and EDP

More divine magic from the house of Vero Profumo; this time as the olfactory incarnation known to many as Rubj... a parfum whose spirited heart is every bit as crimson as her name might suggest.

Unlike her responsible older sister Onda, Rubj could be considered the black sheep of her fragrant family; the non-conforming coquette whose principles are - by some measure or another - really rather corrupt. In extrait form, she is unscrupulously flirtatious... a dancing nymph whose alabaster hips sway with calculation under sheer scarlet silk. Mouth-watering citruses, Moroccan orange blossom and opulent jasmine cavort with a very carnal tuberose and titillating musks to create an extrait that is dewy, voluptuous and provocative. To the nose, it feels plump and succulent... an olfactory venus flytrap.

Rubj's creator Vero Kern has enhanced the top notes of her eau de parfum variation without dishonouring the original. Here though, Rubj takes on another persona... one whose principles are still in tact (even if only on the surface). In this instance, she will first hold you at arms length; her cheeks flushed with coyness. The eau de parfum opens with a note much like cumin which will challenge you and act as a moral obstruction before you may be allowed to savour her fruits. Only when she is ready, she will lean in with her vermillion painted lips; as spirited and as impish as always. Rubj will romance you all night, but when you awaken, she will be gone in the morning.

Vero Kern not only manages to beguile and bewitch with Rubj, but does so by breathing an air of nostalgia and sentiment into her lungs. Much like my beloved Onda, this perfume also resonates with the classic perfumes of the early 20th century.

Rubj can be purchased in extrait form by visiting veroprofumo.com, and as an eau de parfum at campomarzio70.it.

Mona di Orio - Les Nombres d'Or

For any perfumer, an 'olfactory fingerprint' is a difficult thing to acquire. One might work for an entire lifetime, and never achieve the elusive red thread that extends across his or her body of work that promptly identifies it as their own. Edmond Roudnitska achieved it with his famed 20th century compositions for Rochas and Dior, as did Jacques Guerlain with his esteemed 'Guerlinade' accord, however it is something that few noses in this day and age manage to attain.

Mona di Orio is a perfumer whose work can be recognised immediately. She approaches her work with an intuitiveness akin to the great masters. Her collection of Parfums stand both individually and collectively as a testament to her efforts and exceptional attention to detail.

Now, a new trio of eaux de toilettes are set to be released under the name Les Nombres d'Or (The Golden Numbers), which is a reference to the golden mathematical ratio by which artists and and architects have proportioned their work for centuries. As the architect of her own perfume, Mona has endeavoured to apply the same precision and concept to her three compositions: Cuir, Ambre and Musc.

Cuir is a deliciously warm and enduring leather fragrance which opens with a hint of forest green with rich, balsamic undertones. It shifts into a smokey, slightly woody facet (much like smoked woodchips) that pulls forward a sultry leather accord; one that is lavish and dark. There are fleeting moments of campfire smoke and I detect something akin to a murmur of tobacco leaf in there too. Cuir is compelling and highly appealing.

Official notes are: Cardamom, Absinthe, Leather, Cade, Opoponax and Castoreum.

Ambre is rather saccharine as it opens, but shifts into something rather multi-dimensional. It is resinous, but with burnt, honeyed qualities. As the perfume evolves, one can detect a dense floral core, which becomes slightly more powdery and vanillic with time. A soft ribbon of cedar lies within, furnishing the perfume with a melancholic aspect that is hard to describe. I liken it to the sweet powdery smell of an old mahogany grand piano, with a thin film of dust that has settled on the keys.

Official notes are: Cedarwood, Ylang Ylang, Tolu resin, Benzoin, and Vanilla Absolute.

Musc is a spirited composition that opens with a semi-diaphanous citrusy green, and a flutter of blonde florals. Whilst there is no musk present per sey, there is a sense of crisp, rounded muskiness... the anatomy of this perfume seems to be thorough, deep and considered. A creamy, mossy base lends a sense of pale woods also. Musc is a beautiful and elegant interpretation which is gentle, summery and restrained.

Official notes are: Neroli, Angelica, Heliotrope, Rose, Tonka Bean and Moss.

This collection of eau de toilettes represents an interesting new tributary in Mona di Orio's range. Each will retail for approximately 110 euros for 100ml at select retailers in Europe and the US.

Winner of Puredistance I sample!

Many thanks to all who entered the Sorcery of Scent's Puredistance I sample giveaway. Thanks also to readers who have hung in there patiently whilst I have been moving continents!

The lucky winner of the boxed Puredistance I sample selected at random is HJ!

Congratulations! I will be in touch with you soon to obtain your postal details.

Thanks again to all, and stay tuned for more reviews and giveaways soon!

Profumi di Pantelleria

Few people are familiar with the Mediterranean isle of Pantelleria, located off the south west coast of Sicily. Its virtual isolation renders it a modern-day eden of unique plant species and awe-inspiring vistas that extend out over rocky bays and emerald green waters. The island of Pantelleria and its wealth of fragrances that pervade the cliffs, the paths and the surprising woods all serve as the inspiration behind Profumi di Pantelleria... a fascinating series of eight perfumes that each capture the essence of this far-flung isle.

Executed by nose Maurizio Cerizza under the diligent direction of Calé's Silvio Levi, Profumi di Pantelleria have been fashioned with a great sensitivity to the art, and, I expect, the destination. Below are my brief insights on each of the scents from this appealing portfolio.

"Il Profumo di Pantelleria" is a stirring citrusy green eau de parfum which is every bit as warm and sunny as a flourishing citrus glade where waxy leaves sparkle with morning dew and bushels of climbing jasmine and fragrant lavender are visited by humming, well-intentioned honeybees. Tufts of aromatic herbs like rosemary and and thyme furnish the perfume with a definite sense of the Mediterranean.
The Angel-esque perfume "Jailia" draws upon Pantellarian folklore of a beautiful Princess, and explores the essences of an enchanted garden. Rich and voluptuous notes of peach, tangerine and honeyed red fruits provide a lip-smacking prelude to a darker woody-amber base of vanilla, chocolate and patchouli. Jailia blankets the skin like the firm, enduring embrace of a lover... it is more-ish and compelling.
According to the notes accompanying my sample, "Dammuso" is the olfactory interpretation of the antique Pantellarian domicile; where families converge to recount their day in an ideal "buen retiro" surrounded by gardens. To my nose, however, Damusso is the Italian equivalent of a French l'eau... that is, an uncomplicated scent that vivifies and uplifts; here with shimmering citrus topnotes, and an enduring drydown of blackberry, green tea and pale musks."Nica" is an enchanting reference to the cornucopia of flowers, vineyards, and orchards prevalent on the island. Its opening accords of champagne grape and tangerine dance rapturously over a floral posy of yellow freesias and purple violets... the result is distinctly feminine in nature. Nica is vital and spritely and resonates in the nose in the same manner that a woman's laugh resonates in the ears.

The weightless eau de parfum "Aire" pays hommage to the shadow-speckled corners of the island where one can enjoy some welcome respite from the sun... the temperature sinks to a sympathetic degree with gentle gusts of white tea, white pepper and a tiny scattering of soft florals. Aire is as transparent as the open sky where crying gulls soar motionless on crisp oceanic updrafts. An enduring base of white musk and creamy tonka lingers on the skin like a rippling white hair-ribbon whisked away on the breeze. Aire would also serve as a spectacular way to scent your linen!
Whilst the majority of scents from this line can be easily enjoyed by both sexes, "Maestral" is potentially the most masculine of the line. I can easily fathom the inspiration for this perfume being the rugged Pantellarian shoreline, with its rocky cliff faces and wind-swept shoals. Rum, rhubarb and aromatic lavender communicate a sense of comfort and familiarity whilst cardamom, vetiver and cedarwood evoke a feeling of resilient, grounded earthiness. A tiny floret of iris and jasmine perhaps remind us that within every man there is a tenderness to be found. Maestrale is as bold and commanding as the rolling sea; yet as tranquil as the calm that comes after the deluge. A personal favourite.

"Tanit" was the name given to the goddess who was celebrated for centuries in the Mediterranean basin, and also the name given to this tenacious eau de parfum - one that demonstrates an epic strength of character. Tanit is unrelenting in its femininity with aromatic topnotes of basil and zesty ginger coupled with a variety of dramatic florals: peony, magnolia jasmine and osmanthus. A delicious undertone of patchouli and musk liken it in style to the exotic attars of Asia Minor. Just as the notes supplied with my sample suggests, Tanit represents "feminine sensuality combined with determination and presence of mind".
Finally, there is Approdo, a perfume that marries the scent of the sea with that of the land; where salty, mineralic notes lap gently against basil, tangerine, soapy vetiver and summery Mediterranean flowers. Approdo is clean and refined and evokes a strong sense of basking under a warm Mediterranean sun on the stern of a boat with a sheer spray of saltwater settling across your body.
Unfortunately, many of us will never visit the shores of Pantelleria, but Profumi di Pantelleria offers the wearer a unique and rare opportunity to experience her from afar. And for those who have had the pleasure of walking her worn tracks and who have looked out over the Mediterranean from an outcrop high above the sea, what better a souvenir to take home with you?
Profumi di Pantelleria are available from www.essenza-nobile.com and retail for 105 euros for 100ml.

Puredistance: the sum and substance of a woman.

The cathedral-lined streets of Vienna, Austria make home to countless mansions and apartments with stunning ornamental baroque facades. As the birthplace of Mozart, there is a feeling of romance at every turn where one might expect to hear the strains of a harpsichord cart-wheeling down from a window, or the clatter of horse-drawn carriages across worn cobbled stones.

In keeping with the same sense of opulence and lavishness that has permeated the city for centuries, the Puredistance Perfume Lounge was created in the heart of the capital to serve as company headquarters from where one of the most distinctive fragrance and luxury brands has been born.

Puredistance I is the perfume that exemplifies both the imagination of company founder Jan Ewoud Vos, and the efforts of New York master perfumer Annie Buzantian (whose professional portfolio includes numerous commercial successes for Lauder, Armani, Ralph Lauren and Diane von Furstenburg). Presented in weighty Swarovski crystal columns accented with 24K gold or high grade polished steel; and packaged in silk-lined leatherette boxes with magnetic closures, Puredistance I embraces refined luxury and sophistication from the get-go. But beyond the glacial, hard-edged crystal shard and sanitary snow-white packaging, the amber-coloured juice residing inside surprises with its warm, companionable, resolutely feminine air.

Puredistance I, with its exotic topnotes of tangerine flower and cassis and dewy, wet ozone/acquatic characteristics, evokes a resemblance to ritualistic bathing in a secluded forest spring. Delicately blended floral facets of magnolia, jasmine and mimosa tumble like cascading spring petals, which rouse and enchant with a beguiling, sensuous aura. It is as chaste as it is seductive, and its deeply inspiriting dry down of honeyed amber, earthy vetiver and voluptuous white musk lingers long on the skin. These basenotes imbue the air with a mood of carnality and compulsion. If one can imagine a perfume that embraces the fundamental sum and substance of a woman - one that enchants as much as it bamboozles - and succeeds in speaking to every man and his virility, Puredistance I could be it.

Puredistance I comes in a generous pure parfum concentration of 32% and is available as a 17.5ml perfume spray. The bottles can be purchased and used independently of the hand-crafted limited edition crystal columns, but for the ultimate gift, the Puredistance crystal column in either clear crystal or jet black, is the ultimate everlasting jewel. Visit the Puredistance website for further information as to the hand-selected stores where Puredistance I can be purchased.

GIVEAWAY!

Sorcery of Scent has a scarce boxed 1ml sample of Puredistance I (valued at 15 euros) to give away to one lucky reader. To enter the draw, leave a comment on this article - ensuring that your contact email address is visible on your blogger profile - and a winner will be picked at random and announced here in a week or two.

Best of luck!

Dimitri.

City Shopping Feature: London Part II: Roja Dove Haute Perfumerie

Twice I have visited London, and twice I have been delighted at how many random people on the street simply smell fabulous. As I meander through the throng around Victoria station or through the posh laneways surrounding Bond Street, it feels as though every few meters I turn on my heel to inhale the fragrant molecules suspended around me as I stroll through some anonymous person's sillage. London is a wondrous destination for perfume lovers, and you would be doing yourself an injustice if not taking an excursion to the Roja Dove Haute Perfumerie on the top floor of Harrods in Knightsbridge.


If you can fight your way past the clueless sales assistants wielding glazed expressions and pre-spritzed blotters on the ground floor and head for the escalators, you will soon see that the cream always rises to the top as you push through the heavy glass doors and enter the opulent environs of the Roja Dove retreat on level 5. On the day of my visit, I was greeted warmly by manager Annette Nejad whose sincere welcome set the tone for my visit. The walls of the retreat are painted a dramatic midnight black, and recessed halogens pick out the faceted faces of a hundred twinkling flacons; some housed in airtight vitrines, and others under hand-blown vintage domes. For the fragrance aficionado, this space is a treasure trove of stunning vintage artifacts and one can't help but marvel at rare and precious pieces from Roja Dove's personal perfume collection that are dotted around the store.


Annette will allow you all the time in the world to explore their fragrant inventory, but when asked about a particular perfume, she or one of the in-house fragrance experts will offer a wealth of fascinating information, as one might expect of such an establishment. Boasting arguably the most substantial niche perfume collection in London, as well as the exclusive fragrance trio that bear the Roja Dove name: Scandal, Unspoken and Enslaved, the Roja Dove Haute Perfumerie caters to a clientele with an appreciation of perfume that is a head and shoulders above the norm. "Being located on the top floor of Harrods and tucked away behind the Urban Retreat, we recognize that when someone walks through the doors of the Roja Dove Haute Perfumery, they have sought us out specifically", says Manager Annette. "Our selection and service represents the pinnacle of Haute Perfumerie".

We talk for a long while and Annette and assistant Miles walk me through a number of exclusive and almost-unheard-of fragrant releases, each of which have been hand-selected by Roja Dove himself as being unique or innovative in some way. I find the conversation to be totally engrossing and whilst glancing at my watch, am shocked to find almost 40 minutes have elapsed since first stepping into the store. With hesitation, I announce that I must press on, but prolong my departure a little more to engage in some more fascinating discourse, and sniff at some more extraordinary blotters.

On a previous visit to the Haute Perfumerie I purchased the "Essence of Perfume" book. With lovely images from Roja Dove's personal collection, and interesting narratives on key historical perfume releases, I can personally recommend it.
In addition, the Haute Perfumerie offers one-on-one personal consultations to assist you in finding a new sensory soul-mate.
More details on Roja Dove and the Perfumerie's services can be found on the Harrods Urban Retreat website.

City Shopping Feature: London Part I: Avery Fine Perfumery

Until my recent trip to London, 'Mayfair' was simply an indigo-coloured Monopoly card that all players aspired to possess. It was the one piece of board-game real-estate that could make or break a person's fortune. But today - as I strolled around the luxury hotels and beautiful squares and gardens of the district for the very first time - I truly came to appreciate the grand architecture and exclusive businesses flourishing in the area. For fragrance enthusiasts visiting London, the Avery Fine Perfumery that opened earlier this week on Avery Row in Mayfair represents the newest retail boutique to fling open its doors in the locality.


Avery Fine Perfumery is the perfume project of Dutch designer Lilian Driessen, wife of Nasomatto nose and CEO Alessandro Gualtieri, and the boutique interior reflects her predilection for the quirky and chic. Playing on the "avery / aviary" theme, the caged window displays present perfumes perched atop stylized branches, and concealed speakers in the store funnel through exotic birdcalls that twitter and ka-caw overhead. A stylish heavy wooden dresser with bird-talon feet offers a very select variety of perfumed elixirs to please and enchant the nose, including those from: Nasomatto, Nez a Nez, Carthusia, Andree Putman, Profumi del Forte and Morgane Le Fey. Whilst the store space is tight, it has been decorated beautifully, and one can't help but feel as though they might have tumbled down Alice's rabbithole into a parallel world of altered reality.


Only 72 hours after opening, Avery are already creating a flutter in Mayfair. At the time of my visit, Sarah Jessica Parker's publicist stepped into the store (currently in town for the London premiere of Sex and the City 2), lured in by the smokey ribbon of Black Afgano that was meandering on the air; and promised to return with her celebrity client who is currently residing just around the corner at the ever-stylish Claridges Hotel.



More lines soon to be added to the Avery inventory include Bodicea the Victorious, Boellis and Profumi di Firenze.

You can visit the store in person at 27 Avery Row, Mayfair, or online at http://www.averylondon.com/