Mona di Orio - Les Nombres d'Or

For any perfumer, an 'olfactory fingerprint' is a difficult thing to acquire. One might work for an entire lifetime, and never achieve the elusive red thread that extends across his or her body of work that promptly identifies it as their own. Edmond Roudnitska achieved it with his famed 20th century compositions for Rochas and Dior, as did Jacques Guerlain with his esteemed 'Guerlinade' accord, however it is something that few noses in this day and age manage to attain.

Mona di Orio is a perfumer whose work can be recognised immediately. She approaches her work with an intuitiveness akin to the great masters. Her collection of Parfums stand both individually and collectively as a testament to her efforts and exceptional attention to detail.

Now, a new trio of eaux de toilettes are set to be released under the name Les Nombres d'Or (The Golden Numbers), which is a reference to the golden mathematical ratio by which artists and and architects have proportioned their work for centuries. As the architect of her own perfume, Mona has endeavoured to apply the same precision and concept to her three compositions: Cuir, Ambre and Musc.

Cuir is a deliciously warm and enduring leather fragrance which opens with a hint of forest green with rich, balsamic undertones. It shifts into a smokey, slightly woody facet (much like smoked woodchips) that pulls forward a sultry leather accord; one that is lavish and dark. There are fleeting moments of campfire smoke and I detect something akin to a murmur of tobacco leaf in there too. Cuir is compelling and highly appealing.

Official notes are: Cardamom, Absinthe, Leather, Cade, Opoponax and Castoreum.

Ambre is rather saccharine as it opens, but shifts into something rather multi-dimensional. It is resinous, but with burnt, honeyed qualities. As the perfume evolves, one can detect a dense floral core, which becomes slightly more powdery and vanillic with time. A soft ribbon of cedar lies within, furnishing the perfume with a melancholic aspect that is hard to describe. I liken it to the sweet powdery smell of an old mahogany grand piano, with a thin film of dust that has settled on the keys.

Official notes are: Cedarwood, Ylang Ylang, Tolu resin, Benzoin, and Vanilla Absolute.

Musc is a spirited composition that opens with a semi-diaphanous citrusy green, and a flutter of blonde florals. Whilst there is no musk present per sey, there is a sense of crisp, rounded muskiness... the anatomy of this perfume seems to be thorough, deep and considered. A creamy, mossy base lends a sense of pale woods also. Musc is a beautiful and elegant interpretation which is gentle, summery and restrained.

Official notes are: Neroli, Angelica, Heliotrope, Rose, Tonka Bean and Moss.

This collection of eau de toilettes represents an interesting new tributary in Mona di Orio's range. Each will retail for approximately 110 euros for 100ml at select retailers in Europe and the US.

Winner of Puredistance I sample!

Many thanks to all who entered the Sorcery of Scent's Puredistance I sample giveaway. Thanks also to readers who have hung in there patiently whilst I have been moving continents!

The lucky winner of the boxed Puredistance I sample selected at random is HJ!

Congratulations! I will be in touch with you soon to obtain your postal details.

Thanks again to all, and stay tuned for more reviews and giveaways soon!

Profumi di Pantelleria

Few people are familiar with the Mediterranean isle of Pantelleria, located off the south west coast of Sicily. Its virtual isolation renders it a modern-day eden of unique plant species and awe-inspiring vistas that extend out over rocky bays and emerald green waters. The island of Pantelleria and its wealth of fragrances that pervade the cliffs, the paths and the surprising woods all serve as the inspiration behind Profumi di Pantelleria... a fascinating series of eight perfumes that each capture the essence of this far-flung isle.

Executed by nose Maurizio Cerizza under the diligent direction of Calé's Silvio Levi, Profumi di Pantelleria have been fashioned with a great sensitivity to the art, and, I expect, the destination. Below are my brief insights on each of the scents from this appealing portfolio.

"Il Profumo di Pantelleria" is a stirring citrusy green eau de parfum which is every bit as warm and sunny as a flourishing citrus glade where waxy leaves sparkle with morning dew and bushels of climbing jasmine and fragrant lavender are visited by humming, well-intentioned honeybees. Tufts of aromatic herbs like rosemary and and thyme furnish the perfume with a definite sense of the Mediterranean.
The Angel-esque perfume "Jailia" draws upon Pantellarian folklore of a beautiful Princess, and explores the essences of an enchanted garden. Rich and voluptuous notes of peach, tangerine and honeyed red fruits provide a lip-smacking prelude to a darker woody-amber base of vanilla, chocolate and patchouli. Jailia blankets the skin like the firm, enduring embrace of a lover... it is more-ish and compelling.
According to the notes accompanying my sample, "Dammuso" is the olfactory interpretation of the antique Pantellarian domicile; where families converge to recount their day in an ideal "buen retiro" surrounded by gardens. To my nose, however, Damusso is the Italian equivalent of a French l'eau... that is, an uncomplicated scent that vivifies and uplifts; here with shimmering citrus topnotes, and an enduring drydown of blackberry, green tea and pale musks."Nica" is an enchanting reference to the cornucopia of flowers, vineyards, and orchards prevalent on the island. Its opening accords of champagne grape and tangerine dance rapturously over a floral posy of yellow freesias and purple violets... the result is distinctly feminine in nature. Nica is vital and spritely and resonates in the nose in the same manner that a woman's laugh resonates in the ears.

The weightless eau de parfum "Aire" pays hommage to the shadow-speckled corners of the island where one can enjoy some welcome respite from the sun... the temperature sinks to a sympathetic degree with gentle gusts of white tea, white pepper and a tiny scattering of soft florals. Aire is as transparent as the open sky where crying gulls soar motionless on crisp oceanic updrafts. An enduring base of white musk and creamy tonka lingers on the skin like a rippling white hair-ribbon whisked away on the breeze. Aire would also serve as a spectacular way to scent your linen!
Whilst the majority of scents from this line can be easily enjoyed by both sexes, "Maestral" is potentially the most masculine of the line. I can easily fathom the inspiration for this perfume being the rugged Pantellarian shoreline, with its rocky cliff faces and wind-swept shoals. Rum, rhubarb and aromatic lavender communicate a sense of comfort and familiarity whilst cardamom, vetiver and cedarwood evoke a feeling of resilient, grounded earthiness. A tiny floret of iris and jasmine perhaps remind us that within every man there is a tenderness to be found. Maestrale is as bold and commanding as the rolling sea; yet as tranquil as the calm that comes after the deluge. A personal favourite.

"Tanit" was the name given to the goddess who was celebrated for centuries in the Mediterranean basin, and also the name given to this tenacious eau de parfum - one that demonstrates an epic strength of character. Tanit is unrelenting in its femininity with aromatic topnotes of basil and zesty ginger coupled with a variety of dramatic florals: peony, magnolia jasmine and osmanthus. A delicious undertone of patchouli and musk liken it in style to the exotic attars of Asia Minor. Just as the notes supplied with my sample suggests, Tanit represents "feminine sensuality combined with determination and presence of mind".
Finally, there is Approdo, a perfume that marries the scent of the sea with that of the land; where salty, mineralic notes lap gently against basil, tangerine, soapy vetiver and summery Mediterranean flowers. Approdo is clean and refined and evokes a strong sense of basking under a warm Mediterranean sun on the stern of a boat with a sheer spray of saltwater settling across your body.
Unfortunately, many of us will never visit the shores of Pantelleria, but Profumi di Pantelleria offers the wearer a unique and rare opportunity to experience her from afar. And for those who have had the pleasure of walking her worn tracks and who have looked out over the Mediterranean from an outcrop high above the sea, what better a souvenir to take home with you?
Profumi di Pantelleria are available from www.essenza-nobile.com and retail for 105 euros for 100ml.

Puredistance: the sum and substance of a woman.

The cathedral-lined streets of Vienna, Austria make home to countless mansions and apartments with stunning ornamental baroque facades. As the birthplace of Mozart, there is a feeling of romance at every turn where one might expect to hear the strains of a harpsichord cart-wheeling down from a window, or the clatter of horse-drawn carriages across worn cobbled stones.

In keeping with the same sense of opulence and lavishness that has permeated the city for centuries, the Puredistance Perfume Lounge was created in the heart of the capital to serve as company headquarters from where one of the most distinctive fragrance and luxury brands has been born.

Puredistance I is the perfume that exemplifies both the imagination of company founder Jan Ewoud Vos, and the efforts of New York master perfumer Annie Buzantian (whose professional portfolio includes numerous commercial successes for Lauder, Armani, Ralph Lauren and Diane von Furstenburg). Presented in weighty Swarovski crystal columns accented with 24K gold or high grade polished steel; and packaged in silk-lined leatherette boxes with magnetic closures, Puredistance I embraces refined luxury and sophistication from the get-go. But beyond the glacial, hard-edged crystal shard and sanitary snow-white packaging, the amber-coloured juice residing inside surprises with its warm, companionable, resolutely feminine air.

Puredistance I, with its exotic topnotes of tangerine flower and cassis and dewy, wet ozone/acquatic characteristics, evokes a resemblance to ritualistic bathing in a secluded forest spring. Delicately blended floral facets of magnolia, jasmine and mimosa tumble like cascading spring petals, which rouse and enchant with a beguiling, sensuous aura. It is as chaste as it is seductive, and its deeply inspiriting dry down of honeyed amber, earthy vetiver and voluptuous white musk lingers long on the skin. These basenotes imbue the air with a mood of carnality and compulsion. If one can imagine a perfume that embraces the fundamental sum and substance of a woman - one that enchants as much as it bamboozles - and succeeds in speaking to every man and his virility, Puredistance I could be it.

Puredistance I comes in a generous pure parfum concentration of 32% and is available as a 17.5ml perfume spray. The bottles can be purchased and used independently of the hand-crafted limited edition crystal columns, but for the ultimate gift, the Puredistance crystal column in either clear crystal or jet black, is the ultimate everlasting jewel. Visit the Puredistance website for further information as to the hand-selected stores where Puredistance I can be purchased.

GIVEAWAY!

Sorcery of Scent has a scarce boxed 1ml sample of Puredistance I (valued at 15 euros) to give away to one lucky reader. To enter the draw, leave a comment on this article - ensuring that your contact email address is visible on your blogger profile - and a winner will be picked at random and announced here in a week or two.

Best of luck!

Dimitri.

City Shopping Feature: London Part II: Roja Dove Haute Perfumerie

Twice I have visited London, and twice I have been delighted at how many random people on the street simply smell fabulous. As I meander through the throng around Victoria station or through the posh laneways surrounding Bond Street, it feels as though every few meters I turn on my heel to inhale the fragrant molecules suspended around me as I stroll through some anonymous person's sillage. London is a wondrous destination for perfume lovers, and you would be doing yourself an injustice if not taking an excursion to the Roja Dove Haute Perfumerie on the top floor of Harrods in Knightsbridge.


If you can fight your way past the clueless sales assistants wielding glazed expressions and pre-spritzed blotters on the ground floor and head for the escalators, you will soon see that the cream always rises to the top as you push through the heavy glass doors and enter the opulent environs of the Roja Dove retreat on level 5. On the day of my visit, I was greeted warmly by manager Annette Nejad whose sincere welcome set the tone for my visit. The walls of the retreat are painted a dramatic midnight black, and recessed halogens pick out the faceted faces of a hundred twinkling flacons; some housed in airtight vitrines, and others under hand-blown vintage domes. For the fragrance aficionado, this space is a treasure trove of stunning vintage artifacts and one can't help but marvel at rare and precious pieces from Roja Dove's personal perfume collection that are dotted around the store.


Annette will allow you all the time in the world to explore their fragrant inventory, but when asked about a particular perfume, she or one of the in-house fragrance experts will offer a wealth of fascinating information, as one might expect of such an establishment. Boasting arguably the most substantial niche perfume collection in London, as well as the exclusive fragrance trio that bear the Roja Dove name: Scandal, Unspoken and Enslaved, the Roja Dove Haute Perfumerie caters to a clientele with an appreciation of perfume that is a head and shoulders above the norm. "Being located on the top floor of Harrods and tucked away behind the Urban Retreat, we recognize that when someone walks through the doors of the Roja Dove Haute Perfumery, they have sought us out specifically", says Manager Annette. "Our selection and service represents the pinnacle of Haute Perfumerie".

We talk for a long while and Annette and assistant Miles walk me through a number of exclusive and almost-unheard-of fragrant releases, each of which have been hand-selected by Roja Dove himself as being unique or innovative in some way. I find the conversation to be totally engrossing and whilst glancing at my watch, am shocked to find almost 40 minutes have elapsed since first stepping into the store. With hesitation, I announce that I must press on, but prolong my departure a little more to engage in some more fascinating discourse, and sniff at some more extraordinary blotters.

On a previous visit to the Haute Perfumerie I purchased the "Essence of Perfume" book. With lovely images from Roja Dove's personal collection, and interesting narratives on key historical perfume releases, I can personally recommend it.
In addition, the Haute Perfumerie offers one-on-one personal consultations to assist you in finding a new sensory soul-mate.
More details on Roja Dove and the Perfumerie's services can be found on the Harrods Urban Retreat website.

City Shopping Feature: London Part I: Avery Fine Perfumery

Until my recent trip to London, 'Mayfair' was simply an indigo-coloured Monopoly card that all players aspired to possess. It was the one piece of board-game real-estate that could make or break a person's fortune. But today - as I strolled around the luxury hotels and beautiful squares and gardens of the district for the very first time - I truly came to appreciate the grand architecture and exclusive businesses flourishing in the area. For fragrance enthusiasts visiting London, the Avery Fine Perfumery that opened earlier this week on Avery Row in Mayfair represents the newest retail boutique to fling open its doors in the locality.


Avery Fine Perfumery is the perfume project of Dutch designer Lilian Driessen, wife of Nasomatto nose and CEO Alessandro Gualtieri, and the boutique interior reflects her predilection for the quirky and chic. Playing on the "avery / aviary" theme, the caged window displays present perfumes perched atop stylized branches, and concealed speakers in the store funnel through exotic birdcalls that twitter and ka-caw overhead. A stylish heavy wooden dresser with bird-talon feet offers a very select variety of perfumed elixirs to please and enchant the nose, including those from: Nasomatto, Nez a Nez, Carthusia, Andree Putman, Profumi del Forte and Morgane Le Fey. Whilst the store space is tight, it has been decorated beautifully, and one can't help but feel as though they might have tumbled down Alice's rabbithole into a parallel world of altered reality.


Only 72 hours after opening, Avery are already creating a flutter in Mayfair. At the time of my visit, Sarah Jessica Parker's publicist stepped into the store (currently in town for the London premiere of Sex and the City 2), lured in by the smokey ribbon of Black Afgano that was meandering on the air; and promised to return with her celebrity client who is currently residing just around the corner at the ever-stylish Claridges Hotel.



More lines soon to be added to the Avery inventory include Bodicea the Victorious, Boellis and Profumi di Firenze.

You can visit the store in person at 27 Avery Row, Mayfair, or online at http://www.averylondon.com/

Vero Profumo: Onda

Whilst penning my somewhat indulgent Sorcery of Scent perfume narratives; seldom do I ever find myself at a complete and utter loss for words. Occasionally though - very, very rarely in fact - I am moved monumentally by a perfume so much so, that I cannot even begin to articulate my adulation. At a guess, many thousands of scented molecules have been waved under my nose on paper strips and dewy forearms over the years, but perhaps less than five have managed to stop me dead in my tracks...

So today, I am here to sing the praises of Onda; my voice representing only one in a growing choir that rhapsodize about this extraordinary release.

Swiss perfumer Vero Kern stands firmly at the helm of her company Vero Profumo; a brand whose olfactory proclivity aligns itself with the classic perfume houses of the early 20th century, and one which is rapidly gaining ground in the luxury perfume market. Choosing not to do anything by halves, Vero stepped onto the world stage in 2007, surprisingly with three extraits in hand; Kiki, Rubj and Onda.


Kern's trio of pure parfums are something to be treasured. If not for the stunning flacons and exceptional quality of the raw materials used, then for Vero's sensitivity to the art of blending and consummate craftsmanship. Whilst all three scents deserve lustrous accolades, Onda in particular, serves as a thought-provoking reminder as to what the perfuming arts are really all about. Just one afternoon spent with this incredible extrait is all it took to force me to reconceive what is really important about perfume... to look beyond the physical: (bottles, labels, packaging and oils suspended in alcohol)... and to give in to the invisible and the implied.


Onda is timeless in a hauntingly beautiful way: it speaks of antiquated eras filled with lush Art Deco architecture, art, clothing and style. It puts its olfactory bookmark right between the pages of history where the Jazz Age was in full swing; a time of glamour and defiance where "Flappers" wore brief skirts and bobbed hair, and where black & white silent movies finally found their voices. It was a dynamic period following the horrors of WWI, marking a break with tradition and renewed social and artistic expression.


Onda is a spectacular leather perfume that is composed of warm honey-like amber accords, sharp ginger and dry vetiver - a mixture that inspires rememberance and nostalgia. Whilst it offers a deeply moving sense of familiarity, it also reveals a hollow pang of sadness and despair... much in keeping with the style of Guerlain's Vol de Nuit and L'Heure Bleue - two perfume triumphs of that age. Tender iris lends a soft dryness which works in unison with the vetiver and leather base to furnish Onda with a vintage "airless" closed-over-the-ages feel.

The chypre-style amber/patchouli base is warm and enduring... sitting on my skin for close to 24 hours. As the final whispers of Onda dissipate from my arm, so too do the images of the 'flappers' and the 'sheiks' in my mind's eye. Their smiling sepia faces fade like ghosts from a vintage photograph, leaving only the depiction of a grand Art Deco music hall behind.

Sometimes words simply can't articulate that which the human nose and mind knows. Onda is a perfume whose masterful execution and fathomless beauty sets a benchmark that other perfumers should aspire to achieve.


Onda, Kiki and Rubj are all available as extraits via retailers listed on veroprofumo.com, and are something to be truly experienced. Campomarzio70 in Rome, Italy are exclusive worldwide distributors of Vero Profumo and besides stocking the extraits, also exclusively carry 50ml eau de parfums of the trio, as introduced at this years Esxence expo in Milan. It is worth noting that the EDP's are not simply diluted versions of the extraits - Vero Kern has made a conscious effort to highlight the EDP's topnotes, without compromising the unique and timeless charm of the extrait. Having sampled both the extrait and the eau de parfum, I can attest first hand to her success.


Onda / Kiki
€199 - 15ml extrait
€135 - 7.5ml extrait
€110 - 50ml EDP

Rubj
€210 - 15ml extrait
€145 - 7.5ml extrait
€135 - 50ml EDP

Comme des Garcons: 2 Man

Resinous fragrances appeal to me in a manner like no other. Perhaps my inherent appreciation for frankincense and other tree stones has emerged from a childhood immersed in orthodoxy; where the perfume of frankincense was enjoyed at numerous ecclesiastical celebrations throughout the year. There is nothing I like more than to burn the stones over coal discs and enjoy the aroma, or to source scents in which resinous accords are executed masterfully.

Comme des Garcons 2 Man has been on the market for 5 or 6 years, but in my book, still remains a top contender for my "Best Frankincense" accolade. Whilst it reveals a sharp orange metallic accord when first applied, 2 Man swiftly evolves into a deliciously warm frankincense / incense scent, which surprisingly remains somewhat transparent throughout the course of its life. Often, I find incense fragrances have a husky or dry quality, but this eau de toilette remains crisp and unclouded; boasting a sense of stark purity that is very much in keeping with other Comme des Garcons releases.

Whilst many have been hasty to compare this to Gucci Pour Homme, I find the likeness rather superficial. Whilst both scents engage the nose with lovely resinous hearts, Gucci hones in more on pepper and woods, whilst Comme des Garcons explores sheer white smoke and spices. Much in the same way Andy Tauer's L'Air du Desért Marocain manages to masterfully evoke sensations from the shifting desert sands, so too does 2 Man.

Cumin and nutmeg suggest an interesting marriage between bitter and sweet accords, however the shining star of all spices used here is awarded to a slightly acerbic (almost plasticky) saffron. Saffron in itself is a difficult scent to describe, however 2 Man rather successfully interprets the aroma of these blazing red stamens. (Washington Tremlett's Black Tie is the only other perfume I have encountered in which the saffron notes used possibly best resemble the actual foodstuff). The sum of these individual components make for one of the more beautiful incense fragrances on the modern market.

2 Man lingers on my skin for a very generous 8-9 hours, and whilst marketed to men, has an equally strong female following.
Comme des Garcons 2 Man is available at www.essenza-nobile.de in 100ml flacons for €69.

Random acts of kindness: a salute to Jacqueline Johnson.

There is something pure and honest about perfume. Not only does it possess the capacity to transform the wearer, but it manages to succeed in bringing together all those that love and adore it. I don't need to tell you that entire communities exist in praise of the perfuming arts; each one representing a cross-section of bottle collectors and perfume historians to spray-card collectors and amateur noses. Whatever one's individual predilection, a sense of citizenry exists between scent-lovers the world over. It is a fellowship that reaches beyond borders, from one home directly into another. It is a bond that is achieved without words... but rather, a keen sense of smell.

Robert Johnson of Becker Street Antiques in Portland, Oregon very generously sent me the charming bottles pictured above. Why? Simply because he knew I'd treasure them. A connection that materialised practically out of nowhere, and one that is proof positive that a feeling of camaraderie is alive and well in perfume circles. Whilst I've never met Rob in person, I feel we share the common understanding that perfume and their individual presentations are something to be enjoyed and appreciated. That's precisely what Robert's wife Jacqueline might have believed too, before her passing not so long ago. Jacqueline Johnson was a passionate perfumista and member of the IPBA (International Perfume Bottle Association) where she penned regular columns for their quarterly magazine, and offered valuable advice to collectors on ebay. Jacqueline also presided over the impressive online vintage perfume inventory on the Becker Street Antiques website. Perhaps her most dedicated efforts though, culminated with the publication of her very own 190-page book titled Classic Perfume Advertising 1920 - 1970, a book that was sadly launched at the same time as her passing. I see much effort and care has gone into compiling this beautifully illustrated compendium of advertising material, and urge anyone interested in purchasing direct from the publisher to visit www.schifferbooks.com in the US, or www.bushwoodbooks.co.uk in Europe.

ISBN: 978-0-7643-2741-4

190 pages / 370 illustrations

I am always amazed at how perfume touches so many lives in so many ways. I will always cherish this Baccarat L'Heure Bleue bottle and lovely Shalimar flacon, not just because they are Jacqueline's anonymous gift to me by way of her husband; but also for her lasting contribution to the preservation and appreciation of the art.

If you would like to peruse the wares at Becker Street Antiques, visit http://www.beckerstreet.com/

Calé Fragranze d'Autore: Preludio d'Oriente

Italian distributors and creators of fine niche perfumes Calé continue to pleasure my nose with their aromatic chypre release, Preludio d'Oriente. Tales of a Thousand and One Nights inspire this creation, where creators Silvio Levi and Maurizio Cerizza draw upon the Near and Far East to compose a perfume that is every bit as enchanting as a stroll through the Maharaja's gardens.

Preludio opens with a brief sparkle of sweet mandarin and sour citrus... one that is short lived as a stunning incense accord reaches up from beneath and spreads out laterally, cloaking the perfume with a husky, semi-opaque shroud. The mildly metallic/resinous aroma of raw frankincense stones can be identified; furnishing one with the distinct olfactory sensation of standing in the medinas of Northern Africa.

Where most Eastern-inspired compositions would likely reference the abundant spices of the Asian souqs, Preludio d'Oriente looks the other way and tips it's fez at the many tanneries instead; incorporating a moderately creamy, lightly animalic mountain goat leather accord. This deliberate decision I feel puts Preludio above and beyond other scents of the same genre, where innovation and intelligence triumph out over the obvious and the commonplace.

As the perfume settles, a beautiful, velvety sandalwood emerges, and I instantly think of ornate wooden boxes and perfumed sandalwood fans that have been painstakingly crafted by hand beneath the shade-giving tents of the Maghreb. A hint of placid patchouli in the base acts as an anchor and allows it to sit on the skin for around 7-8 hours. The official perfume pyramid references agarwood here too, though I struggle to pick it out... there is very little medicinal, animalic or overtly balsamic about Preludio d'Orient to suggest it has been used in abundance. This being said, the drydown is one of the most enjoyable I have encountered in a very long time.

One definitely to be tried.

Preludi d'Oriente is available in 50 and 100ml sizes from www.ausliebezumduft.de for €65 and €90 respectively.