Wednesday, 4 August 2010

5 Rare Guerlains in 5 Days - Day III: Jasmin

Jasmin first appeared in the Guerlain perfume portfolio in 1924. It emerged post-WWI, just as the world swung into a brand new age of optimism and a renewed social consciousness.
Originally presented in the 'quadrilobe' flacon, and later in 'goutte', 'rosebud' and cobalt Baccarat presentations, Jasmin was one of Jacques Guerlain's numerous soliflore interpretations.

Perhaps what I find most beautiful about my vintage eau de toilette, is that it is not a straight-forward jasmine fragrance. For a single-flower scent, it is really rather complex.
The opening impression is of mildly indolic jasmine blossoms... rich and opulent; however its potency is somewhat short-lived. One becomes aware of a sharp undertone of lily of the valley which provides a crisp green constituent as the jasmine notes suddenly diminish by half. Five or six minutes later, a saccharine honey/vanilla accord emerges that reminds me of chewy Laudurée jasmine macaroons. Notes of pale wood bestow a slightly bitter "toasted" vibe.

One cannot deny the sweetness of this scent which, for its time, sometimes borders on the gourmand. Whilst evoking a sense of prettiness and youth, one can also recognise a more responsible, considered base of oakmoss.

Jasmin dances between juvenescence and adulthood... a soliflore that celebrates women both young, and those young at heart.

Tomorrow: Guerlain's Rue de la Paix


Mimi Gardenia said...

I always wondred about these old scents , Dimitri. Thanks for helping educate my Guerlain mind ! Very good descriptions. :)

kjanicki said...

That's sounds beautiful. Lucky you to have these.