City Shopping Feature: Harald Lubner, Hamburg

Visitors to Hamburg, Germany will find perfumeries practically on every street corner. The major German franchise Douglas has stores dotted across the country and in all major European cities. For the niche perfume enthusiast however, my recommendation is that you forego the mainstream stores and visit Harald Lubner - a beautiful boutique perfumery with a massive perfume portfolio that will keep you amused for hours!

In 2000, Harald Lubner flung open its doors and has been catering to clients looking for luxury scented products ever since. The store is stocked from floor to ceiling with over 80 international brands of perfumes, room fragrance and skincare products - but only those that qualitatively stand head and shoulders above the rest.

On the day of my visit, the staff were attentive and friendly and allowed me the space we required to fully explore the range. Harald Lubner himself was also at our disposal if we wished to seek specialist advice. After exchanging a few words, I understood the impeccable perfume portfolio on offer had been hand-selected by a man with a vast knowledge and clear passion for the art.

Just some of the brands waiting to explore include: Montale, Esteban, Byredo Parfums, Nasomatto, Miller Harris, Frederic Malle, Etro, Lorenzo Villoresi, Parfums Generale, Creed, Keiko Mecheri, Czech & Speake, Diptyque, L'Artisan Parfumeur, and many, many more.

Harald Lubner Feinste Düft und Seifen is located on:

Grosse Bleichen 23

20354 Hamburg

tel: 040 3571 5455

Mon-Fri 11-19, Sat. 10.30 - 16.

Footnote:

One other unrelated niche perfumery exists in Hamburg at Hamburger Hof, although they are notorious for their appalling service. The day I visited was proof positive that the rumours are true. If you enjoy shopping in an environment where pretentious sales staff and management dress you down with their eyes and denounce any measure of knowledge that you might have, then I strongly recommend a visit - but just so you can witness it for yourself.

I adamantly suggest you save your euros for Harald Lubner though - the two retail outlets and shopping experiences are simply poles apart.

Le Cherche Midi sample winners!

Warm congratulations to our 2 winners of full Le Cherche Midi sample sets!

Renia and Federica were two names selected at random as winners in the comp!

I will be contacting you both to obtain further details.

For the remaining participants, a big thank you from Sorcery of Scent for your expression of interest! Stay tuned for more competitions that will be coming up closer to the Holidays!

Le Cherche Midi: Scents for Skin and Surroundings

When it comes to scenting a living space, I tend to be rather persnickety. Incense sticks that are too husky, or room sprays that vanish in a matter of seconds will always find their place amongst the clutter in my kitchen bin, toute suite. Nine times out of ten, you get what you pay for, which often makes shopping for ambient perfumes a very expensive exercise.

Fortunately, a breath of fresh air on the luxury perfume front is artisanal fragrance house Le Cherche Midi - whose innovative series of perfumed products are set to position them as heavyweights on the international market. This house, whose roots extend back to the charming Left Bank of Paris, is proof positive that exceptional value for money does not necessarily compromise quality. Winning the 2008 Best Off Main Awards for Most Luxurious Candle Line and Best Gift over $50, Le Cherche Midi was also named as a finalist for the 2008 FiFi Awards for Interior Scent... all accolades that in my opinion, have been rightfully bestowed.

Working with a number of world renowned French perfumers, Le Cherche Midi created a series of complex and sophisticated fragrances d'ambience, each of which bear no name. Instead, each has been assigned a colour and a number, leaving the customer the opportunity to interpret and respond to them in their own way. Surprisingly, their skin-safe fragrance mists are intended to be worn on the skin, as well as used to scent your surroundings.

I was recently furnished with a number of products from the LCM range, each of which are beautifully presented in hand-crafted wooden boxes, with pure silk linings. Of particular note, is their unprecedented "Fragrance Cube" reedless diffuser - a patent-pending product that does away with fussy reed-flipping and potential messes. (A dowel plug dipped into the alcohol-free fragrance draws up the fragrant oil and diffuses it through the solid wooden top). Here in Denmark, as the days darken by 4.30pm and the temperatures barely peer above zero, our home, unfortunately, rarely has the opportunity to be aired. In the last few days since opening the Fragrance Cube, our living space has been discreetly perfumed and we are conscious of a distinct aura of "clean and comfortable" that has permeated through.

BEGONE, gruff, gravelly incense! BEGONE, I say!

And now, a few of my impressions about the scents themselves:

01 - Aquatic/oceanic "sporty" accords of bergamot, lavender, mint and oakmoss.

05 - Grassy greens, laundered sheets: pine, galbanum, tonka beans.

09 - Oriental candied cashmere: lemon meringue, indolic florals, amber, patch & vanilla absolute.

14 - Dewy spring orchard: mandarin, blackcurrant and blushing peonies

20 - Dank earthy cedar: bergamot, black pepper, amber, cedar & sandalwood. Think: Terre d'Hermés.

21 - Warm spicy wine: cardamom, saffron, blackberry, carnation, cinnamon, leather

57 - Cool spring garden tea-party: white tea, cherry blossom, vetiver, white moss, vanilla

CT01 - Damp autumn underbrush: cypress, fir, sage, pine, aged vetiver.

Sorcery of Scent Giveaway!

2 very lucky readers have the chance to win a full set of all 8 Le Cherche Midi samples so they can try the line.

Simply comment on this post, and tell me which of the scents above appeals to you the most and why. Be sure to enable your contact email address, so you can be notified if you're a winner!

2 winners will be selected at random, and their names published here in the weeks to come.

City Shopping Feature - Duft & Kultur - Vienna

By far the most enjoyable destination for fragrance lovers in Vienna is to be found at Tuchlauben 17 just a stone's throw from Stephansplatz in the city center. Much more than a perfume store, Duft und Kultur is a welcome retreat and conceptual shopping experience. From the street front, the store's facade is sleek and understated, but when you step inside it feels as though you have walked into an exotic bazaar of smells, colours and textures. Old empire apothecary cabinets brim with scented candles, bundles of incense and pretty bottles of niche and hard-to-find perfumes from international perfume houses.

Duft Und Kultur embraces all things fragrant, and celebrates their far-flung source - the sprawling boutique itself like a tattered passport stamped with destinations both exotic and enticing. Small alcoves and shuttered vitrines house fragrant teas , rich textiles, hand-made pottery, oils, lotions, resins, salves and colognes, and one cant help feel captivated by the scope and bounty of the goods on offer. On this particular visit, Antonio and Lisa - the very accommodating staff - allowed us the time and space we required to meander through the shop and turn things over in our hands; sniff, shake, spritz, scatter, clatter, unfurl, uncurl and completely exhaust our senses. I scooped up several boxes of oliban from Yemen to burn over coal discs, whilst my wife inhaled the luxurious nap of deep suede handbags (of which she later bought three!).

A known stockist of one of my favourite "go to" scents, Molinard Pour Homme II, Lisa and Antonio offered me generous samples as consolation when I was told my scent was out of stock, and each took the time to show me something new and different that perhaps I might not have considered otherwise. Duft und Kultur carry a bountiful selection of scents and scented products from Comptoir Sud Pacifique, Lubin, L'Artisan Perfumeur, Esteban, Diptyque, Molinard, Fragonard, and many, many more. The real treasures are to be found however, by exploring every nook and cranny where interesting artefacts reside (jasmine or damas rose-infused sea salt, for example).

Duft und Kultur cater to a clientele who have a distinct appreciation of perfumed products and their origin, and offer five-star service. Absolutely not to be missed when visiting Vienna.

Duft und Kultur

Aschauer GmbH

Tuchlauben 17

A-1010 Wien

Tel: 0043 1 532 3960

Mon-Fri. 10am - 6.30pm, Sat. 10am to 5pm.

City Shopping Feature: Le Parfum - Vienna

A few years ago I wrote a glowing review about Le Parfum - a Viennese niche perfume retailer in the heart of the Austrian capital which I felt at the time had ticked all the right boxes.

On my first visit since, I sadly learned that things at Le Parfum were no longer quite up to par. The blonde saleswoman behind the cashdesk bewildered me somewhat, enough so to make me seriously wonder if she was on meds. Any conversation I attempted to strike up about their perfume selection shifted swiftly into a discourse about how the store owner was currently holidaying in Crete, and having a wonderful time. I wondered if the €10 hike on most prices in the store was helping pay for this exotic Grecian excursion. Instead of buying the Nasomatto Black Afgano that I had intended; I scampered.

I returned a week later figuring I'd give them the benefit of the doubt. When I entered the store this time, I was delighted to see the original sales assistant whom had helped me on my first exceptional visit a few years ago. I smiled broadly but was met with a lukewarm gaze. When asking a few questions that I had saved since my previous (doomed) visit, I received responses that were every bit as tepid as her stare. I couldn't help but feel I was intruding when a young man who was clearly waiting for her shift to end or to meet with her stared at his watch and shifted in his seat impatiently. Instead of indulging my senses, I plucked the Nasomatto from the shelf and made for the cash register. Where samples were once generously offered in the past, this time one was dropped into my bag upon my request.

It could be that I walked in on two occasions when the sales assistants were having a bad day, but the odds of my visiting again have now diminished. Le Parfum is still a good little outlet for niche scents in Vienna, but recommended only if you cant find what you are looking for elsewhere.

City Shopping Feature: Marchée aux Puces de Saint Ouen - Paris.

Perfume shoppers descending on Paris may be under the misconception that they are likely to unearth some rare treasure at one of the many flea markets around the city. It is true that the very keen-eyed collector who is prepared to drag themselves out of a warm hotel bed at 5.30am on the first market day of the week MIGHT just stumble upon something special... if they know what they're looking for of course! Sadly, bargains are few and far between, despite the many markets dotted in and around the capital. It would seem the Parisians know only too well the value of their wares, which makes treasure-hunting an expensive affair.

The wildly popular Marchée aux Puces de St Ouen is no different. Situated north of the city center, the marketplace comprises 13 individual smaller markets and covers over 7 hectares of land! For those wishing to fossick through old books, retro light fittings, frames and mirrors and an enormous variety of bric-a-brac, the pickings are excellent. For the perfume aficionado however, there is a scant selection to be found. Small stalls particularly in the Vernaison quarter offer the occasional vintage or mainstream figural bottle here and there, or perhaps a long-discontinued miniature at a reasonable price (I bought a 7ml bottle of Guerlain Derby for just a couple of euros). When you do stumble upon what looks to be a forgotten Lalique flacon that appears to have been thrust to the back of a dusty shelf at the rear of a dodgy store (with your heart hammering in your chest), you will almost always find an accompanying sticker on its base that reads €800, or similar.

Unfortunately, much of the perfume clutter is just that: clutter.

Perhaps more of a showcase than a retail outlet, I'd recommend visitors to the St Ouen market drop by Eliane-Parfume - a small stall in Le Marché Vernaison. Here, one of the most delightful collections of perfumes modern, vintage and rare are on display behind tall glass vitrines. Many are for sale, and some are not, but all are lovingly presided over by Mme Eliane who has collected each miniature, factice and flacon one by one.

Guerlain enthusiasts will see a gorgeous display of rare and unique bottles, and Mme Eliane houses some truly stunning Lalique bottles from the turn of the century. A large display case also holds rare and enchanting perfume jewellery and promotional items - pins, bracelets, scarves - many given as gifts with purchase, or to sales reps to be worn as a part of their standard uniform. Mme Eliane is happy for you to browse and take pictures, but the promotional items are not to be photographed; "its complicated" she insists, whilst shooing you away with both hands.

As beautiful as they may seem, the rarities don't come cheap, but some very reasonable purchases can be made on modern bottles and factices. As for me, I bought nothing on this particular visit... instead I ooh'ed and aah'ed through the vitrines, pleased that after a long day of rummaging through boxes and baskets, I had been rewarded with this visual feast.

Le Marché aux Puces de Saint Ouen is open Sat-Mon. from approximately 10am to 5pm.

Eliane Parfume is situated in the Marché Vernaison

Stand 144, Allée No. 3

City Shopping Feature: Maison Francis Kurkdjian - Paris

When visiting France, a stroll through the Jardins des Tuileries in Paris is highly recommended. If not for the lovely gardens, then perhaps for one of the prettiest vistas in the capital. Les Jardins lie on the doorstep of the Musée de Louvre, and run parallel to the picturesque Seine – they offer a 360 degree view of stunning Parisian architecture, le Arc de Triomphe and achres of enchanting manicured lawns.
Just a few yards from this sprawling oasis, is Rue d’Alger – a tiny side street that boasts a brand new attraction – that is, the delightful Maison Francis Kurkdjian; a tiny boutique housing the latest perfume narratives of the award winning Parisian nose. At a glance, the entrance to the store looks like it has been over-fortified with architectural beams of iron and panes of glass... the imposing door towers over us as we push past it and step into the foyer of the boutique from the quiet street. The atmosphere feels instantly perfumed with invisible candles, and we stop for a moment to marvel at a charming cityscape of Paris that is behind glass and has been created from tin and gold coloured metal, that runs the length of one wall. I immediately think of whimsical and elaborate Danish paper cut outs. Beyond, we enter a room whose interior is tastefully decorated in harmonious white, grey and gold hues and a friendly young Parisian woman bids us “bonjour” and flashes us a winning smile. I explain that my companions and I have waited a long while to visit the boutique, and ask to be introduced to M. Kurkdjian’s latest creations. The young woman, Donatienne, is only too obliging, and begins by explaining that the miniature skyline of Paris in the vitrine behind us, is the world as seen through the eyes of the Perfumer... we turn on our heels and look back upon the display and each sigh accordingly.

I note that the materials used to create it seem muted and hushed, and am awash with a sense of calm. We turn back to the products assembled in front of us, and Donatienne points out that the perfume packaging echoes the aesthetic of the store, and of Paris in general... the raw tin caps afixed to the heavy glass flacons represent the materials used in architecture, and the flashes of gold incorporated into the line of packaging, mimic the gold used across the city on the ornamental Parisian monuments. We are impressed at the overall aesthetic and cohesiveness. But we are eager to sample the line.

We begin with Aqua Universalis – Kurkdjian’s take on a “clean” fragrance, which immediately conveys a vivifying sense of freshness: an eau de toilette that is as simple, as universal and as timeless as a crisp white shirt. Donatienne explains that this scent was created not only to wear, but also to perfume linens and fabrics. I could easily imagine how luxurious it would be to wake up on 1000 thread-count sheets that have been imbued with this perfume. We are then introduced to Cologne Pour le Matin - a generous 200ml bottle of scented water which Kurkdjian proposes is to be worn after slumbering, and its counterpart, Cologne Pour le Soir; a scent created to evoke warm feelings of comfort and love, and of being wrapped in cashmere. It is dark and ambery and I smell husky curls of incense permeate from within.

We sample more. Lumière Noire pour Femme and Lumière Noire pour Homme. My eyes widen as the latter is lifted to my nose... its lingering sillage is similar to that found in Kurkdjian's other perfume triumph, Narciso Rodriguez For Her (the edt version). I find it interesting this accord is now used as the base in this new men's creation. The female version features patchouli and rose, and evokes an unusual sense of chaiaroscuro – sometimes light and playful, and other times dark and dramatic. By now, I find myself holding a number of cards in the “must keep” hand, and my arms are both heavily perfumed to the elbows. My friends and I offer our wrists to one another and fan cards under each other’s noses as our patient host looks on with a smile... it seems she understands how captivating these scents are. APOM (A Piece of Me) pour Femme follows next, and I find my wife in raptures marveling at this glorious scent which is heavy with ylang ylang and causes her to inhale her wrists repeatedly. APOM Pour Homme is a masterful balance of neroli, cedar and warm amber.

My friends and I peruse the shelves and notice the diversity of goods on offer - aromatic paper strips that are designed to be burned, scented bubble-blowing solution, fragrant laundry detergent, scented candles, leather bracelets imbued with perfume, and of course the line of eau de colognes, toilettes and parfums. It seems to me that anyone visiting the boutique would find something appealing to take home with them.

For me, it was the 200ml bottle of Cologne Pour le Soir at €140. Donatienne cheerfully processed the sale and buried a generous number of samples in the monogrammed tissue paper that surrounded my purchase. We left the store feeling as though we had spent 30 minutes or so in Donatienne's very capable hands, and with a wish to return at our soonest convenience.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian represents for me, a vivid perfume narrative of the city I was visiting. Whilst these scents might be considered 'niche' in terms of their accessibility, they truly seem more "honest", and without a trace of pretentiousness.

I am confident we will return every time we visit the capital.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian,

5 Rue d'Alger,

75001 Paris.

Perfume Ponderings: Paris

Tomorrow, my wife and I celebrate 10 years of marital harmony.

To mark this rather decent milestone, we decided we would visit Paris for the first time ever and enjoy some respite from the day-to-day ebb and flow of our lives and careers at home.

Of course for this pair of perfume junkies, we are likely to forego the romantic spa treatments and dinners at the Ritz, in favour of running rampant across the city discovering all the perfumed treasures on offer at the chic boutiques and department stores. The only massage we can truly imagine indulging in, will be the occasional foot massage as we plop down into a soft chair at some boulangerie to grab a café au lait and macaroon before tearing off to our next fragrant destination. Ah, Paris!

Sorcery of Scent will still be up and running, and posting a city shopping guide and photos from our travels through Paris and farther afield. Some highlights will include a look into the brand new Maison Francis Kurkdjian boutique, and an exclusive meeting with French jeweller/perfumer Olivier Durbano.

Stay tuned for more!

Amitiés,

Dimitri.

A Scent: Issey Miyake

I've always appreciated Issey Miyake's perfumes and unfussy advertising.

Sometimes however, I get the impression that his "minimalist" aesthetic is just a ruse... after all, I find the perfumed releases from his line really rather complex, despite their purported 'minimalist' approach. Take the groundbreaking Le Feu d'Issey for example - a perfume that lived a very short life for being way too avante garde... its vast array of notes and accords ran the gamut from sichuan peppers to Japanese lilies, to milk; the end result representing his take on the elemental force of fire. It was an extraordinary synthesis of accords that, when it appeared on department store shelves, was bottled and packaged in clean, simple, Miyake-esque geometric shapes... a sphere inside a cube. What else? Even the starring pair in his perfume portfolio L'eau d'Issey and L'eau d'Issey Pour Homme - which portray the purest and most basic of the elements: water - have compositions which are really very intricate.

Miyake's 2009 women's release: a scent, is no different.

At a glance, the transparent heavy glass flacon and the colourless liquid it holds both seem to epitomise the Miyake approach of understated, unembellished functionality. Even the name a scent is as uncomplicated a name as one can possibly assign to a perfume. This being said, it is when you actually come to experience the perfume itself, you learn that once again, the bottle's contents belie this perception. The introductory spritz furnishes the wearer with an extraordinary feeling of green... sharp, crisp, rich emerald hues, which are not at all unlike the herbaceous, sophisticated opening puff of Sisley's Eau de Campagne. It prickles with ripe citruses before meandering towards a wonderfully rich floral heart. Intoxicating jasmine and hyacinth smoulder and there are fleeting moments of the heady floral rubberiness one can experience whilst wearing Fredric Malle's En Passant. The overall impression is as if walking through a beautiful garden at the height of summer with the verbena and hyacinths in bloom - totally enchanting and also a little overwhelming. Fortunately, the crisp green and shimmering citruses manage to reign in the opulent florals. The tail end of this fragrance shifts towards a "freshly-washed" soapiness - something that renders a scent the perfect vivifying fragrance to be worn in (but not limited to) hot weather, or during long-haul travel. This eau de toilette lasts a satisfying 7 hours on my skin.

The very fact that Issey Miyake can cram an entire European summer garden into a modest glass bottle and market it in an unostentatious manner, really speaks to me of his extraordinary vision. Whilst many others would resort to smoke and mirrors, Miyake strips them back - so sure he is that a scent will be well received.

His aesthetic may be minimal, but his perfumes are sincerely profound.

Stephen Jones x Comme des Garcons

To my mind, anything that bares the signature of French fashion/fragrance house Comme des Garcons is something to be explored. For the past forty years CdG's owner Rei Kawakubo has continually shocked and amazed with cutting-edge fashion, boutique installations and advertising that are all extremely avant garde in nature. Their approach to perfume has also always been unconventional and innovatory - from their world's first "anti-perfume" release in 1998 titled Odeur 53, to their more recent Synthetic series.

It hence comes as no surprise to me that Comme des Garcons teamed up with British milliner extraordinaire Stephen Jones, winner of an Outstanding Achievement Award in Fashion for his flamboyant and progressive headwear; to create the perfume Stephen Jones Millinery.

As one might expect from such an alliance of pioneering minds, Stephen Jones Millinery is both remarkable and unique... it bears the nonconformist olfactory fingerprint of CdG, and the outlandish aesthetic of Stephen Jones. Beautifully packaged in a jet-black miniature hat box and wrapped in a milliner's veil, the obsidian-coloured flacon is semi-organic in appearance - reminding me perhaps of a galactic seed-pod waiting to eject perfumed spores into the air. As I turn it in my hands, deep inside the bottle one can see flashes of violet as the light picks out its facets. There is something cold, alien, or otherworldly about it.

The juice itself sparkles with aldehydes as it is first applied, like some shiny, twinkling nebula. It is a bracing introduction to a perfume which is very Comme des Garcons: unruly, bold and commanding. Violets feature heavily in the opening of this scent, but it is not a mainstream interpretation of violets: they are cold and metallic, as if plucked from the gardens of a dark moon found in some distant starscape. CdG list meteorite and magma as starring accords, and one would agree that they have succeeded in introducing a cold mineralic quality to the composition. The scent does however, retain some earthbound accords as well - a dewy rose, peppery carnation and slightly muddy vetiver feature, though, I get the impression that they too may have been cryogenically frozen and then defrosted again in some intergalactic ark. There is a distinct sensation of breathing refrigerated air here which is not at all unpleasant... just interesting. If Stephen Jones and Comme des Garcons set out to compel and inspire, then they have succeeded.

Few scents these days make me literally step back and say "Wow!" because sometimes I just feel as if I've "seen it all". Fortunately, Millinery exceeded my expectations and has given me much to ponder. As my wife and I share our 50ml bottle, (and in doing so garner peculiar stares at the sushi bar or ATM); I reflect upon the future of perfumery and what could be regarded as the final frontier.

Stephen Jones Millinery is exclusively available in 50ml bottles, and lasts up to 7 hours on my skin and 9 hours on hers. Its sillage is above average. One definitely worth experiencing.

Xerjoff sample winners!

My warm congratulations go out to the two following readers whose names were picked at random to win carded samples from the Xerjoff Casamorati line:

Fiore d'Ulivo - Merlijn

Mefisto - Scott

Gents, please contact me using the email provided on my blogger profile and kindly include your postal details.

Many thanks to all who commented and entered the competition. Sorcery of Scent will be holding more comps in the future, so please stay tuned.

/Dimitri.

XerJoff Casamorati: Fiore d'Ulivo + your chance to WIN!

In April of this year I blogged about a niche Italian fragrance house whose star is on the rise: XerJoff - a brand that embraces the idea of opulence and excess, and whose perfumes are nothing short of stupendous.

The most recent series in the XerJoff line is the delightful Casamorati range - a collection that preserves the distinguished history of a glorious fragrance house that was founded in Italy between the 18th and 19th centuries. The House of Casamorati was traditionally revered for its perfumed bathing soaps, and the vintage aromas once used to scent their creations have now been reincarnated in the form of this stunning Xerjoff perfume duo.

XJ Casamorati 1888 comprises two eau de parfums - the first Mefisto; an uplifting Italian oriental scent for men, and the second, Fiore d'Ulivo, a fresh floral for women. To my nose however, each of these scents can easily be worn and enjoyed by both genders. Mefisto is a tribute to classic Italian colognes, with a crisp citrus opening leading to a more floral heart of lavender, rose and Florentine iris. These accords shimmer over a rich base of sandalwood, cedar, vanilla and musk... the overall impression reminds me a little of Creed's Silver Mountain Water; however Mefisto offers something more of a classic Mediterranean character with rich undertones that lends it a soft and luscious oriental finish. In terms of refinement and finish, the Creed simply does come close.

But for my money, I am very taken with Fiore d'Ulivo... a parfum which embodies spring time in the Mediterranean, where the olive trees bloom for just a few days each year. This perfume is a simple composition, using just a handful of ingredients, but one with a very profound outcome. Fresh citrus and lotus flower rest at the top of this scent, where the gentle olive blooms take a starring role. For anyone who has smelled olive blossoms straight from the tree, Fiore d'Ulivo is a very accomplished rendering of that lovely perfume. Tender jasmine and magnolia emphasise the floral facet, and there is a lush soapiness present which conjures a sense of vivifying purity; as if having just washed ones hair in natural rainwater that has been perfumed with tiny flowers. Clean amber and musk lie beneath which add depth and a feeling of richness to the mix. XerJoff are not mincing words when they refer to Fiore d'Ulivo as a "magical springtime potion".

Gratifyingly, both Mefisto and Fiore d'Ulivo are offered in generous eau de parfum concentrations that render them detectable on the skin some 8 hours later.

The Casamorati collection are available through very select retail outlets in the UK, France, Italy and Russia, and retail for €165 each. The perfumes pictured above show this range presented in exquisite hand-made Chinese porcelain flacons, however due to the unexpected porousness of the bottles, they will soon be shipping in beautiful glass flacons instead. Should you ever come across a porcelain presentation, it will surely serve as a very rare and precious keepsake.

WIN!

Sorcery of Scent is offering 2 lucky readers the opportunity to sample one Xerjoff fragrance from the Casamorati range! If you would like to participate, simply post a comment to this post, and tell me which of the two brand-new carded samples pictured above you would like to win.

2 names will be chosen at random on Monday August 17th, and names published here.

Good luck everyone!

Acqua di Parma: Magnolia Nobile

Ever since my love affair with Colonia Intensa germinated in the autumn of 2007, I find myself drawn to all that Acqua di Parma does. If I had a silly amount of money to spend on lavish leather goods and plush towelling robes, I would find myself jetting off to Milan's Acqua di Palma Via del Gesu' boutique to stock up on trinkets. As far as fragrance is concerned, whilst the original men's Colonia does not appeal to me much, I have a strong appreciation for the Colonia flankers and the women's bewitching creation Iris Nobile. Today, much to my delight, I had the opportunity to experience the latest in the women's "Nobile" series: Magnolia Nobile.

Magnolia is the protagonist appearing in the lush villa gardens sprawling around the enchanting Lake Como. Blushing blossoms reach skyward amongst a mosaic of roof gardens and terraces, whilst releasing their rousing perfume on the air... it is a flower that exudes a timeless sense of elegant femininity. It is no wonder that Acqua di Parma awarded her a starring role in this new eau de parfum.

Magnolia Nobile is an abstract of true magnolias - a foray into enchanting florals, much in the same way Iris Nobile demanded your nose attempt to conjure an image of purple irises. Magnolia opens with what I would call the "signature" Acqua di Parma topnote of bergamot and lemon which are distinctly Mediterranean in style. A puff of cedar beckons the nose into a rich floral heart of magnolia, rose, tuberose and jasmine... but there is also a crystalline sharpness which is akin to the Egyptian white musk abundant in Narciso Rodriguez for Her. An adept marriage of floral accords and earthy patchouli and sandalwood makes Magnolia Nobile both modern and whimsical. It is a scent of contrasts in which radiance meets velvety softness. Whilst I wouldn't call it particularly ground-breaking, I would call it a very sophisticated scent of noble intention.

Magnolia Nobile sits close to the skin, and lasts approximately 6-7 hours. I think it a very fitting scent to demonstrate the evolution of the "Nobile" series, and an ideal perfume to celebrate these final days of summer as the days draw in.

Available from September 2009.

Scents in Orthodoxy: Byredo Encens

Celebrations in the Orthodox calendar are numerous. Whilst I grew up far from my Greek heritage and motherland, as an adult married to a Serbian woman, I find myself more and more immersed in the rich tradition that Orthodoxy embraces. Today, on August the 2nd, my wife and family celebrate the Serbian Orthodox feast of Prophet Ilias... an annual observance of the family's patron saint. The day often begins with a ritual visit to the Orthodox church where slavski kolac - a traditional bread is blessed, and then taken home to be eaten with lunch.

Whilst I'm not particularly devout, I do enjoy the opportunity to visit the church with its highly decorative wall paintings and cavernous ceilings. The interior is usually dimly lit with flickering candles which illuminate the centuries-old icons around the room. The air is thick with the smell of beeswax candles and billowing incense, which spills from golden swinging censers. Our occasional visits to these closed spaces result in a sensory blitz of enormous proportions, but when we arrive home again, we find our clothes have been imbued with exotic resinous perfume. For some time now, we have wished for the perfect incense with which to scent our home in the very same fashion.

In my opinion, French perfumer Olivier Durbano best interprets incense in his seven stone poems, however I have finally discovered another treasure; one that we can use to scent our domicile. That is, the hard-to-come-by Encens by Byredo - an ambient room spray and votive candle that are true to their name. Encens is one in a series of discontinued Byredo ambient perfume products that I have enthusiastically taken under my wing. It is tarry and thick with the aroma of smokey benzoin, fragrant clove and bitter cinnamon. There is a soft floral quality

at its heart - something akin to rose - but this only lends a tender dewyness to the mix. I sense the green tang of bay leaves at its core too... the sum of these ingredients make for a comforting, warm, mouth-watering spray that perfume the home magnificently.

It may be a far cry from the censers of the Greek or Serbian church, but Encens is what we want our home to smell of... husky incense; perhaps coupled with the persistent aroma of gingerbread baking in the other room. A few spritzes on the sheer curtains pulled across an open window will scent our house for hours.

It is unfortunate that Byredo have decided to cease production of this product. It could quite possibly have been one of those 'best-kept secrets' that people pass on to one another by word of mouth.

I am shouting it from the rooftops in the hope that you, cherished reader, still have the time and motivation to get out and source some. While you're at it, have a sniff of Byredo's Bibliotheque room spray for a ground-breaking olfactory experience.

While stocks last.

Bond No9: the Empire State meets the Gulf States

I've always felt it was only a matter of time before NYC perfume giants Bond No9 produced an oud fragrance. Following in the footsteps of many niche houses (and more than a handful of designer ones), Bond No9 have chosen this highly prized ingredient and will be taking us on an Arabian Nights journey into NoHo, just in time for the Christmas.

This scent - simply named Bond No9 Perfume - is said to feature only four ingredients, the fewest ever used in a Bond No9 release. As I scan the pyramid notes accompanying my sample, I am very enthusiastic: oud extract, rose, tonka beans and musk from the Asian musk deer. My better judgement however, tells me that this perfume will be far-removed from the true Eastern ouds and mukhallats that I have come to know and appreciate.

And indeed it is.

But that is not to say that Perfume is not a quality offering. I am surprised at the clever fusion of East and West, ancient and modern, that has produced this scent that is very much aimed at the Western market. The perfume opens with very sharp, synthetic topnotes... here I am confident that there are other accords in the mix other than those listed in the press pack, but do not wish to spoil the romance. Moments later however, the fragrant aloewood glides forward and trebles in strength. The rose note is almost ghost-like here... and most certainly not a rich and heady Damas Rose that one might expect from an oud fragrance; rather, something like a friendly, non-aggressive yellow rose. As the scent develops, the oud grows drier, particularly as the tonka shifts forward and lends an almondy bitterness to the mix. 10 minutes in, and I am rather surprised at the oud accord... one that I don't imagine for a minute is the real deal; but one that possibly holds the closest likeness to true aloeswood that I have come across in a mainstream fragrance release. It is a little dirty, carnal, pungent... but still tizzied up with aldehydes and clean synthetics in order to appeal to the US consumer market. As much as I snort and sniff and huff at my arm, I do not detect any deer musk. There is a congenial synthetic musk that I pick up there, but nothing like the Indian Red Deer Musk sample I have in my drawer, or the mighty Ajmal AA Musk Ghazelle vial I keep sealed in 4 plastic ziplock bags on the other side of our house in a box under a chair in our den.

All being said, Bond No9 Perfume delivers. It is an excellent entry point into the mainstream market, and one that has been done with a good measure of care. It may be a million miles removed from the tanneries of the medina, or the desert soukhs of the Maghreb, but I think it fair to say that for the average American nose, that's probably a good thing.

Bond No9 are offering a whopping 30% concentration in this release, thereby moving it into a category that is rare today: pure perfume. It lasted 5 hours on my skin.

Bond No9 Perfume will be arriving on counter in time for Christmas 2009, and will be sold exclusively at Bond's 4 NYC stores, at select branches of Saks Fifth Avenue, and at Bondno9.com. Price: 100ml, $330 USD.

New from Byredo: Blanche

Stockholm-based fragrance house BYREDO have launched some fascinating parfums in recent times whilst working alongside world renowned perfumers such as Olivia Giacobetti (L'Artisan Perfumeur, Frederic Malle, Costes), Jerome Epinette (Jovoy Paris) and Michel Almairac (Chloé, Bond No9, Gucci). It could be said that their approach to perfumery is somehow very Scandinavian: understated, refined and with a distinct focus on craftsmanship and quality. Now, as Byredo celebrate the launch of Blanche, their 8th skin scent, it is my pleasure to write these few words about this compelling release.

Just as the name suggests, Blanche is a tribute to the colour white. Ben Gorham, the founder and creative director of the brand, notes the following: "the fragrance is pure and simple in structure but extreme in character"... and his perception is right on the money. The scent opens with diamond-white aldehydes that suggest a fragrance almost transparent in nature. Tender white roses blossom over a heart of hushed violet, dewy neroli and blushing peony... and whilst one can feel the translucent quality of this perfume, it is a scent which is really quite intricate. I immediately get the sensation of gauzy white linen billowing on a clothes line, still slightly damp from the wash. It is a sensation that I not only register via my sense of smell, but almost through touch... the composition is very tactile; soft and vapourous. 

Comme des Garcons might have taken some liberties when announcing the aroma of "washing drying on the line" in their 1998 head-space perfume offering Odeur 53, and perhaps the single-scent powerhouse Demeter may have taken a very literal approach when creating their perfume titled Laundromat; but Byredo's Blanche appears to have achieved this "fresh linen" approach with finesse and sensitivity. Light musk, blonde woods and fragrant sandalwood furnish the fragrance with a sense of depth, and lend a sense of familiarity and comfort.

To my astonishment, I found that the fact this perfume is somehow diaphanous in nature, does not mean to say that it is in any way fleeting. Whilst sampling, I sprayed both a card and my skin with Blanche and I retained the scent for an entire day... the card was still perfumed after two. Quite possibly Byredo's best offering yet.

City Shopping Feature: STORM - COPENHAGEN

This is the first in a series of City Shopping Features that Sorcery of Scent will be publishing. First stop: Copenhagen.

As a chap living in Denmark, I'm often asked by visiting friends to make some recommendations as to where good quality fragrances can be bought in the capital. Whilst I myself live 170kms from the big smoke, I am only too pleased to direct them to some of my favourite haunts. Unfortunately though, few stores offer much more than the stock-standard mainstream range that can be found in any major city. This morning however, I visited Storm - a chic and stylish retail space that is fast earning the accolade of the best fashion and concept designer store in the capital. Storm's shelves and countertops are tastefully arranged with designer clothing from a variety of Scandinavian and international brands, high-fashion eyewear; magazines, CDs and art books, and a selection of eclectic foreign art films. 

Most impressive (to the fragrance aficionado at least), was their excellent variety of niche perfumes and colognes.

Storm carries a varied selection of scents. These include:

Mark Buxton Eau de Parfums (author of fragrances for Givenchy, Versace, Cartier, Comme des Garcons et al).

Byredo Parfums -  Eau de Parfums, room sprays and votive scented candles.

Comme des Garcons including:

Guerilla Series        Luxe: Patchouli

Leaves Series          Red Series

Sherbert Series      Cologne Series

Energy C Series      Synthetic Series

Odeur Series           CdG 2 and 3 

8 88                       CdG Parfum

Stephen Jones

Costume National Eau de Parfums.

Christian Dior Exclusives Eau Noire and Bois d'Argent colognes and scented candles.

Diptyque perfumed products including their EDT range, cologne trio and candle/room spray range.

Eau d'Italie perfumes and perfumed ancillary products

Miller Harris Eau de Parfums

Juliette Has a Gun Eau de Parfums

Ren Perfumes and skin care

Six Scents Series One - individually numbered bottles in a limited series of 2000.

Perhaps more impressive than the scents themselves, is the non-pretentious environment they are housed in. Storm Design Art Fashion is a boutique situated on a corner just meters from a busy Copenhagen street, however when one steps in from outside through the heavy glass doors, you can't help but feel a relaxed and welcoming shopping experience awaits. Soothing ambient music plays through concealed speakers and staff are warm, friendly and accommodating - something very atypical of service in Scandinavia. If you are fortunate, as I was, you might meet store owner Rasmus Storm who was only too happy to walk me through their range. You can get a sense of his impeccable taste and editing eye, which is apparent in the product selection and artfully decorated interior.

Storm is without doubt the premiere destination for anyone visiting Copenhagen who wishes to explore a contemporary retail environment brimming with sophisticated fashion, á la mode art and design literature, and hand-picked perfumes.

Storm

Store Regnegade 1

1110 Copenhagen

Denmark

Tlf: +45 33930014

Mon-Thu, 11:00-17:30; 

Fri, 11:00-19:00;

Sat, 11:00-17:00; Sun, closed

www.stormfashion.dk

Bond No.9 and Andy Warhol: Making Money

NYC perfume giants Bond No.9 have teamed up with the Andy Warhol Foundation once again to launch a brand new warm and spicy gourmand just in time for fall. Andy Warhol Success is a Job in New York is a genderless perfume that has all the lure and appeal of a fistful of cash... its flacon masterfully branded with the almighty dollar sign: one of Warhol's iconic subjects. 

Throughout his career, Warhol was fascinated with the connections between art and money, and in the 60s he painted Pop Art canvases with grids of bank notes. 

In 2009, Bond No. 9 have broken all the rules of romantic perfume subjects and created their first money-oriented perfume that sounds more lavish and decadent than money can buy ... coriander, cardamom, mandarin, bergamot, jasmine, tuberose, rose, plum, pimento, vanilla, patchouli and amber. Fortunately for us though, Success is a Job in New York will soon be available at all four Bond No.9 stores in New York and at select branches of Saks Fifth Avenue at $220 for 100ml, and $145 for 50ml.

ADDENDUM 20/07 - A BRIEF REVIEW: Fresh from the FedEx van this morning, my press sample of Bond No 9 Success is a Job in New York has arrived, and aside from everything else, I'm guessing it boasts possibly the longest name in perfume history! Fortunately though, the same can be said for the scent itself which is really rather persistent. It opens with a shimmering bergamot accord and tart and tangy coriander. There is a velvet-smooth hint of nutmeg and vanilla that emerges rather quickly - much like a delicious egg-nog - which lends a comforting sweetness. Some lovely white florals blossom (tuberose and jasmine), and there is the distinct sense of powdery iris at its heart. 30 - 40 minutes in, and Success... evolves into something quite opulent... the rich florals play over a juicy plum note to evoke a sense of splendour and sumptuousness. Earthy patchouli and lavish benzoin at the base form the durable foundation upon which this scent is built; these accords masterfully blended with a warm vanilla infusion make the drydown extravagant and  addictive. This eau de parfum lasts 6-7 hours on my skin, and thus presents pretty good value for money.

Stay tuned also for Sorcery of Scent's exclusive interview with Bond No.9 president Laurice Rahmé.

Being Tom Ford: Grey Vetiver

It must be hard being Tom Ford. Despite the obvious glamour and celebrity associated with being one of the world's largest contemporary style icons, I can not begin to imagine how much pressure comes with that role. I have trawled the internet looking at photos of Ford, and in every one of them he looks immaculate. Can Ford have a bad hair day? Unlikely, I'd say. So, how difficult would it be to maintain that face both publicly and privately, 24/7? In business, everything the man touches turns to gold and he is often revered as the yardstick against which other designers are measured. His refined, chic, editing eye and fastidious work ethic has seen him reach dizzying heights. People aspire to be like him, taste his fame, and dream to achieve just a fraction of the success he has enjoyed. Ford must be under enormous scrutiny, whilst competitors and adversaries wait for him to stumble. Expectations are stratospheric every time this man opens a boutique, launches a line, or bestows the world with a new perfume creation. I do not envy this man.

Perhaps I too, have unrealistic expectations of Tom Ford - after all, in my opinion, the man has never failed to amaze and inspire me - his superb tailoring, à la mode accessories and stunning private blend perfumes have me pressing my nose at boutique glass windows the world over. Therefore, when I hear of an impending Ford fragrance release, I anticipate perfection and nothing less! Am I being unrealistic in doing so? Hell no... the man has a crack-team of professionals working around the clock under the Tom Ford Beauty umbrella, and cash and resources coming out the wazoo!

Imagine my crushing disappointment then, dear reader, when I sampled the upcoming Tom Ford men's release Grey Vetiver, set to hit shelves this September. Whilst I appreciate the continuity and cohesiveness of the colour-coded Tom Ford fragrance names (Black Orchid, White Patchouli, and now Grey Vetiver), what I find I don't love is the actual scent itself. The name Tom Ford is a brand synonymous with innovation, but here all I see is simulation... reproduction, replication, emulation. As much as it hurts me to say so, I can already identify a handful of scents that Grey Vetiver is a perfumed parody of.

The opening starts out with some promise... a rush of citrus (maybe bergamot and mandarin?) and winter green, veiled by a palpable smokiness; Bvlgari Pour Homme Extrême immediately springs to mind. I think of someone throwing wet leaves onto a fire in the corner of their garden under a solemn grey sky. (Not wishing to overly romanticise the idea, I'll leave the metaphors at that... think: grubby old gardener in overalls, as opposed to a muscle-flexing pool boy). Without any perfume pyramid available for this release, there is an earthiness present that one normally associates with vetiver scents, and I am picking up what I believe may be traces of black pepper and guaiacwood at its heart.  For those familiar with Andy Tauer's Vetiver Dance, there are parallels one can draw between the two, though the Ford release is less rambunctious than Tauer's. I also recognise hues of Narciso Rodriguez for Him... the thick, damp fougere vibe is common to them both, as is a sense of austerity and coldness. Grey Vetiver I feel will appeal to a more mature set - I can't imagine many twenty-year olds reaching for this before heading out for a night on the town... it is a little more corporate in style; more reserved and unapproachable.

Several hours later, and I am left with Versace Jeans Couture Man on my skin... quite possibly one of my least favourite scents - an odour I've always associated with washing dirty cat bowls under hot running water; with something fatty and jellied at its heart. Thankfully (for those who will like this), the scent's persistence is well above average. Not so great if you feel you smell like cat's breath.

After this experience, I have come to understand that, (at least in my eyes), Ford is fallible. Grey Vetiver is the first of his scents that I cannot and will not wear. Perhaps not the outcome I might have liked, but there are always his four new White Musk Private Blends to look forward to. The Sorcery of Scent will be reviewing White Suede in the week to come.

Kenzo Jungle L'Elephant

I usually don't shy away from wearing scents marketed to women, and am pleased if I can inspire men in particular, to try something they might not have ever contemplated. Kenzo's Jungle L'Elephant is one such scent that I feel masterfully bridges the gender divide.

Years before his perfume triumphs such as  Thierry Mugler's Alien and Frederic Malle's Vetiver Extraordinaire, in 1996 French nose Dominique Ropion lent his expertise in creating this avante garde spicy floral for the house of Kenzo. The eau de parfum itself represents a striking balance between nature and man... the unrelenting natural wilderness pitted against the ever-encroaching urban environment. There is a bold contrast between the territories, which is cleverly translated into perfume. L'Elephant is rich with exotic fruits, bewitching florals and dark, familiar spices, but presented in such a way that is almost an abstract "hyper-realistic" approach, much like something you might encounter in one of Mugler's far-flung spacescapes. The advertising video spot (below) embraces this idea in a surreal dream-like fashion.

I am a big fan of L'Elephant. Much like the beast itself, this perfume is bold, robust and commanding. The opening accords I liken to those opulent notes present in Tom Ford's Black Orchid... thick, rich and imposing. A blend of mango, heliotrope and ylang-ylang I find totally enchanting here, and the spices are rich and dark; somehow cumin, cardamom and clove lend a dramatic sense of depth and scale to the mix. A lavish combination of vanilla, liquorice, patchouli and amber imbues the perfume with a delicious gourmand appeal. This intense and dramatic composition creates a perfume that can be enjoyed by many, but, this untamed animal is not one for the faint-hearted. It is extremely tenacious and has titanic sillage. 

Applied sparingly, this innovative scent is sure to turn heads.