Thursday, 28 April 2011

Revisiting D&G By Man

Five or six years have passed since Dolce and Gabbana By Man was withdrawn from sale, but, as is the case with many discontinued scents, it remains highly coveted now several years on. Fetching prices that border on the absurd, in recent years By Man has taken up residence next to Guerlain's Derby and Jean Patou Homme in the Obsolete Men's Fragrance Hall of Fame. Whilst one can only speculate as to why it vanished in the first place, I thought it necessary to revisit this eau de toilette and see for myself if it is indeed all that and a bag of chips.

Launched in 1998 whilst couturiers such as Dolce and Gabbana and Roberto Cavalli were on design safari, drawing their inspiration from animal prints from the natural world, By Man was packaged in a striking zebra print presentation and described as an aromatic woody fragrance. A swift departure from the stinging citrus/pepper composition of its slightly more mature predecessor Dolce & Gabbana Pour Homme, By Man proved a more narcotising bouquet of hushed lavender, warm nutmeg, creamy sandalwood, and soft leather imbued with sensual wisps of ambrox and amber. It was considered seductive and mysterious... qualities which endowed it with a certain sex appeal, and made it an instant favourite amongst men and women alike.

Whilst 'on trend' and rather modern in the late 1990's, By Man's very conspicuous zebra print wrap (now, in 2011) tends to summon thoughts of the Art Deco age - a time where travel to far-flung landscapes such as the Orient and Africa was the norm. Perhaps if there was ever a poster-boy for Dolce and Gabbana's By Man in the 1920's, it would be Rudy Valentino... a man who lived hard and died young, and whom was looked upon as an icon of style and virility. By Man is much like the actor himself; charismatic and appealing. Women want him, and men want to be him... it is an elixir that is both carnally desirable and desperately unattainable in equal measures.

As is the case with other perfume masterpieces such as Le Feu d'Issey, By Man seems to be one of those scents launched well ahead of its time, and sadly suffered for it. In hindsight, I feel By Man now seems to have come of age... it speaks of the past, but in a very fluid, modern vernacular.
Certainly one to add to your collection, if, of course, you can find it.

Thursday, 7 April 2011

Zeta Winners

Congratulations go to our 3 winners of a carded sample of Andy Tauer's new Collectible scent "Zeta". The winners selected at random are:

Abi, AdaPie888 and Effy.

We'll be in contact with you shortly and advise you how you can claim your samples. Thanks to all who commented and joined the draw. More to come soon on Sorcery of Scent!


PS: Perfumistas in Toronto Canada have the opportunity for an organised meetup next Saturday April 16. Read more here.

Friday, 1 April 2011

Andy Tauer Collectibles: ZETA + Giveaway

As the southern hemisphere finally shifts away from the sun and into the welcome embrace of autumn, Swiss perfumer Andy Tauer is the chattering bird that ushers in the northern spring with his brand new eau de parfum, 'ζ' ('Zeta'). With it's name borrowed from a letter of the Greek alphabet, Tauer was inspired to call it thus when he glimpsed the tiny blossoms tumbling from the tree... their delicate forms as they zig-zagged to the ground drawing this delightful letter in the air.

A striking new green flacon holds the flourishing elixir of summer: a fragrant hommage to the warmest season of the year. This, the first of Tauer's Collectibles, represents low volume manufacturing, and perfumes with exceptional quality ingredients that shift and change from harvest to harvest. Zeta is an ode to linden blossom - a fragrant flower that embodies the solar warmth and spirit of summer.

A glimmering citrus opening of lemon, bergamot and sweet orange provide a lip-smacking prelude to a compelling floral heart. Where one might expect the citrus tartness to dominate and linger, in actuality, it recedes rather swiftly and invites the blossoming core of ylang ylang, neroli, rose and linden to shift forward. This very tender nucleus gives the whole composition a soft-as-mohair quality... and with a base of creamy vanilla, orris and Mysore sandalwood, it becomes even more fleecy. I easily imagine weightless clouds of lemon-coloured Persian fairy floss dissolving on my tongue, or the sensation of cashmere brushing across my skin.

Zeta has been approached with great sensitivity. It has the hallmarks of a trademark Tauer scent, but also speaks of a new course in Andy's scented studies. Zeta will be available for purchase in 50ml size only, from mid April. Visit the Tauer Perfumes website for more info.

In the meantime, however, Sorcery of Scent is pleased to offer 1 carded sample of Zeta to 3 lucky readers. Just leave a comment to this post and tell us which tree or flower you feel best epitomises the scent of summer. 3 names will be drawn on April 7th, and published here. Please be sure to include a means to contact you, if you are indeed a winner.

Good luck!