Tuesday 11 August 2009

XerJoff Casamorati: Fiore d'Ulivo



In April of this year I blogged about a niche Italian fragrance house whose star is on the rise: XerJoff - a brand that embraces the idea of opulence and excess, and whose perfumes are nothing short of stupendous.
The most recent series in the XerJoff line is the delightful Casamorati range - a collection that preserves the distinguished history of a glorious fragrance house that was founded in Italy between the 18th and 19th centuries. The House of Casamorati was traditionally revered for its perfumed bathing soaps, and the vintage aromas once used to scent their creations have now been reincarnated in the form of this stunning Xerjoff perfume duo.

XJ Casamorati 1888 comprises two eau de parfums - the first Mefisto; an uplifting Italian oriental scent for men, and the second, Fiore d'Ulivo, a fresh floral for women. To my nose however, each of these scents can easily be worn and enjoyed by both genders. Mefisto is a tribute to classic Italian colognes, with a crisp citrus opening leading to a more floral heart of lavender, rose and Florentine iris. These accords shimmer over a rich base of sandalwood, cedar, vanilla and musk... the overall impression reminds me a little of Creed's Silver Mountain Water; however Mefisto offers something more of a classic Mediterranean character with rich undertones that lends it a soft and luscious oriental finish. In terms of refinement and finish, the Creed simply does come close.


But for my money, I am very taken with Fiore d'Ulivo... a parfum which embodies spring time in the Mediterranean, where the olive trees bloom for just a few days each year. This perfume is a simple composition, using just a handful of ingredients, but one with a very profound outcome. Fresh citrus and lotus flower rest at the top of this scent, where the gentle olive blooms take a starring role. For anyone who has smelled olive blossoms straight from the tree, Fiore d'Ulivo is a very accomplished rendering of that lovely perfume. Tender jasmine and magnolia emphasise the floral facet, and there is a lush soapiness present which conjures a sense of vivifying purity; as if having just washed ones hair in natural rainwater that has been perfumed with tiny flowers. Clean amber and musk lie beneath which add depth and a feeling of richness to the mix. XerJoff are not mincing words when they refer to Fiore d'Ulivo as a "magical springtime potion".
Gratifyingly, both Mefisto and Fiore d'Ulivo are offered in generous eau de parfum concentrations that render them detectable on the skin some 8 hours later.

The Casamorati collection are available through very select retail outlets in the UK, France, Italy and Russia, and retail for €165 each. The perfumes pictured above show this range presented in exquisite hand-made Chinese porcelain flacons, however due to the unexpected porousness of the bottles, they will soon be shipping in beautiful glass flacons instead. Should you ever come across a porcelain presentation, it will surely serve as a very rare and precious keepsake.



28 comments:

Joe said...

Thanks for the reviews Dimitri. I am looking forward to sampling the fragrances from this house.

Landmine monkey said...

Please please Fiore d'Ulivo!!!

Anonymous said...

I'd love to try that Fiore d'Ulivo, but I'm not that picky: colognes are lovely too. (I'd even go for a look at some rows of olive trees... haven't been to Europe, let alone the right parts, in a long time.)

Thanks!
Laura M

Violaine said...

I am a neophyte and like a bee a go from parfum to eaux learning, reading your blog too.
I am very intrigued if not already in love with the Italian MEFISTO! Please add me to your draw :)
Violaine

thescentmuse said...

Fabulous review, Dimitri! Would love to be entered in the draw...Fiore d'Uivo for me. Keep the reviews coming.

Kelley said...

Dimitri, please enter me in the contest. I am hoping/wishing/longing to try Fiore d'Ulivo. It sounds incredible.

Fernando said...

Hi, Dimitri. Please enter me in the draw. These do sound interesting.

Roberto LA 1972 said...

Great review and please let me enter the draw, I'd love to try MEFISTO.
Thank you!!!

Hezbot said...

Mmmmmm Mefisto, I always say yes to Mefisto! Fabulous review! X

jwpianoboe said...

Thank you for your reviews and your offer! I would love to try Fiore d'Ulivo.

Scott said...

Thanks for the review! My first post (though I have been lurking). Mefisto sounds interesting -- please enter me in the drawing. Yours in fragrance, Scott

tarleisio said...

They sound stupendous! I'd love to try Fiori d'Ulivo, so please enter me in the draw!

Fab said...

Although I love the idea of a fragrance called Mefisto, I am more intrigued by Fiore d'Ulivo, which I would love to be able to sample.
-F. (flannelman)

Wakeup Your Makeup said...

Just saying "embodies spring time in the Mediterranean" does it for me, plus yes we had many an olive tree in my youth, but alas cannot remember the fragrance of the blossom...to conjure some fragrant memories of my youth would be welcomed.....

Wordbird said...

Oh Dimi!
Not another perfume range for me to lust over!
*sigh*
These do sound good though...
And I love those beautiful labels.

Timaru said...

Hello Dimitri!
Compliments on yet another intriguing pair of reviews, your appreciation Thread for XerJoff on Basenotes recently has got me to acquire some Shooting Stars samples, they are up for sampling over the next couple of days.
I would love to be in the draw for "Mefisto". The review sounds good and what a felicitous name.

maitreyi1978 said...

I'd like the Fiore d'Ulivo, but I'll try the other too. Please enter me in the draw, and thanks.

orchidfae said...

Oh I want to play! Fiore d'Ulivo sounds heavenly to me. Thanks for the reviews and a chance to win!

parisa said...

Please enter me for the sample of Fiore D'Ulivo ;-)

Justine Crane said...

Hi Dimi,

Mefisto sounds most interesting to me.

By the way, have I told you lately how much I admire your writing style? I do!

dukeofpallmall said...

Well, I still think the carded samples are prettier than the flacons, but who cares when the juice is divine. I'd love to try Mefisto!

Unknown said...

Mmm love the description of Fiore d'Ulivo, as well as Mefisto. Those bottles are too precious.

Merlino said...

Hey Dimitri!

Nice descriptions and I somehow really like the presentation of this line! One thing I didn't understand was which you liked better: Mefisto or Silver Mountain Water?

I'd love to give Fiore d'Olivo a try btw :)

Thanks! Merlijn

Anonymous said...

Mefisto please.

zliang@BN

Anonymous said...

I would like to try Mefisto, thank you for entering me in the drawing. Alica (alica@cleis.net)

KathyT said...

Please enter me into the drawing for the Fiore d'Ulivo. Thanks for the reviews, and I look forward to trying out this line.

Datura5750 said...

Love to try these!

Unknown said...

I recently had the opportunity to smell both of these fragrances while in Italy. They are amazing. My favorite was Fiore D'Ulivo. There is nothing else like it!