Thursday, 21 July 2011

Andy Tauer - Pentachords

This year, Swiss Perfumer Andy Tauer has been busy creating a brand new library of scents - scents which urge one to ponder "How many ingredients do you need to use to create a beautiful and distinctive perfume"?

Andy's answer: Five.

His Pentachords perfumes strip away everything that is nonessential, and rely wholly on only 5 components of exceptional quality in each. They are a celebration of minimalism, without compromising beauty and enchantment.

Chords: Violet blossom, Orris root, Bourbon vanilla, Ambergris, Warm wood.

White is a thought-provoking marriage of notes, the sum of which are remarkably true to the perfume's name. Opening with very dry iris and bourbon vanilla at the fore White communicates an interesting contradiction: a clever play between a thirsty, parched orris root, and juicy, lip-smacking vanilla. A very serene violet note sits in contemplation, furnishing the perfume with the idea of a sunny corner of a garden on a crisp fall morning. There is a blanched, almost sun-bleached quality to this scent, thanks in part to its orris and warm rosewood base. For all intents and purposes, White is not a sweet perfume as one might expect - in fact a hint of ambergris lends a slight saltiness to the composition, as well as an overall solar radiance.
Pentachord White is distinctly gender-neutral and an absolute favourite of the author.

Chords: Citrus blossom, Warm cinnamon, Fruity tobacco, Dry amber, Creamy sandalwood.

Auburn opens with a bright orange blossom note which is infused with rich amber and sprinkles of powdered cinnamon. There is a delectable warmth present - a whisper of tempting cinnamon scrolls and honeyed fruitcake. A slight puff of tobacco and the creamy sandalwood base breathes more depth and a sense of coziness to the perfume.
Readers familiar with Gaultier's Gaultier2 may draw parallels between the amber facet in Auburn and the radiant bubblegum/amber quality in Gaultier's 2; which is not necessarily a negative. A scent for both men and women, Pentachord Auburn feels like a stirring autumnal overture.

Chords: Dewy leaves, Suave leather, Brown tobacco, Sweet earth, Vibrant amber.

Every bit as green as the name suggests, Verdant is an olfactory Eden of lush emerald. Its 'dewy leaves' note feels both minty and moderately bitter; this facet dominates the composition right through until the drydown. One can sense an earthiness at hand, as one would if working damp dirt with a trowel in an overgrown green garden. A feeling of warmth permeates through the dewiness, furnished, in part, by the dry brown tobacco and subtle amber notes.
Also suitable for both sexes, Pentachord Verdant is not a 'green' fragrance comparable to "reference" green scents like Chanel's No.19 or Sisley's Eau de Campagne... instead it treads an uncommon path featuring moist, dripping wet greens.

Andy Tauer's Pentachords are available exclusively until September 2011 through Campomarzio in Italy, after which they will be introduced worldwide.


Anonymous said...

Judging from your descriptions there Auburn is mine. Magnus

froggy said...

great to know his new stuff ! beautiful post, thank you very much, im curious with the orange one,

Gojira said...

Another fine review! I have been really looking forward to these. Can't wait for the world wide release.

Angela Cox said...

Andy , can I have my purple silk/cotton blanket back now. They all sound gorgeous of course.